Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well yeah,

ive been putting some money away every week just bit by bit to get a set of courner sub box's molded to fit a R33.

The time had come to go on ebay and purchase them, but unfortunatly Seductive sounds has no items for sale anymore, it seems they have taken down everything. Then my search started to see if there was a guide to make my own or anywhere else that i could get them from, and well it was a useless search full of useless results.

Any help would be awesome guys :)

Lucas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368291-seductive-sounds/
Share on other sites

If you want some seductive sounds just install a plumb-back BOV, 3" exhaust with a muffler and remove your sound deadening and stereo.

RB engines have such a good sound to them :)

Edit: but to answer your question; I'm searching for a guide I saw once upon a time which had a really good DIY for a sub box..

If you're willing to pay, I have a friend who might be interested in doing it.

Edited by SKITTLES

RB's have a good sound to them when theres a turbo bolted on to the side of them, but problem is i dont have one :(

I thought you didn't.. but your avatar suggests otherwise. haha that looks like the standard metal intake pipe running across the head. Guess I'm wrong though. ><

Haha you haven't heard my baby :) She sounds great (other than that N/A rattle ><)

Still searching.... * not too long later * okay I'm about to pass out from heat exhaustion.

I can't find the tucked-in solution (the fibre glass one, for instance). But I know my 10" sub box fits neatly into the side of my boot, and if I were to hack up some wooden thing in the rear it could look flush.

But that's heavy.. you don't want heavy in an N/A.. remind me tomorrow and I'll find out how to do it.

hahaha dp is my old r32 that i had a rb25 turbo in , just for track not complied and all that other bullcrap, got rid of it a while ago but still worth keeping as my avatar :)

um yeah i put a non-turbo 25 in this r33 for the girlfriend but after driving it, handled better and was abit more fun then my ute, so shes stuck with the ute hahaha. straight swap ;) no cash on top.

plus im on my p's so yeah . no point converting for a track car

Edited by Lucaas

I have one of their sub boxes in my R34. The sound is decent if you are not an audiophile. The box itself is very weak, we had to reinforce it with more fibreglass, but the biggest positive is it comes moulded for either left or right side of the skyines. For me it means more usable space in my boot. I havent had to remove it so far to fit other stuff into the boot. Let me know if you want to see it in person. I dug up their contact details from their auctiva site: http://www.auctiva.com/stores/viewstore2.aspx?id=910452&page=contact

a custom molded box can fit behind your panels ,leaving you all of your boot space ???? 12" subs fit both sides unless your running some monster subs with deep magnets,

and the new shallow mount stuff can fit under rear decks on some cars or behind the factory panels in the boot. and can be well hidden

I'd show you mine but its more elaborate then a sealed box and made out of carbon fiber/lexan

I guess in the end it comes down to what type of sound you are happy with and how much you want to spend (I think the latter is the primary decision point for many). Wow, I had no idea you could fit 12" sub behind the panel, damn should have asked on here before installing mine. Troy, can you suggest anyone in Sydney I can talk to about that? Might sell my 'box' and mount behind the panel.

hmm not positive but chis rogers might know ?more

queen street ? maybe

In car intalllations

anyone who can do a mold for the area, you need to move your jack to inside your spare tyre well , which has more then enough room.

and don't cut metal, it can be a structual defect per ADR rules

the space is about a litre depending on how tight the fit it. . remember you might need to service your light globes and remove your rear bar sometime so don't hinder that access perm(R34)

Edited by sapphiregraphics

doran pro audio in bankstown

the area is the boot on the sides is close to 1.5 cubic feet, not 1.5 liters. oops.lol my USA side got sidetracked. and that takes into account the fiberglass and most med. price subs magnet structure and poly fill.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...