Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh. You just bought a D7000 and are looking for tips.. practice practice practice and read read read. Definately the two most valuable tips you'll get.

You're Looking for help with the 3D A/F function for shooting Moving cars. Right... I don't have a D7000 but mine is similar, and I turned it off. It was to busy focusing on bee's and flowers and anything that wasn't what I was trying to have in focus. Just use the auto option that has the most points available. I think the D7000 has some improvements over the earlier models. to make sure it's doing what you want... practice with it in each mode. pick the one that works best for how you use it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368596-d7000-camera-d/#findComment-5877443
Share on other sites

Hey bud,

I've got a D5000 (earlier model which isn't as good as yours) I've been doing photography about 6 months on a pretty continued basis. Best tip I can give is take your camera with you everywhere, the more often you shoot the better you will get with your camera and its settings.

I'd recommend investing in a decent tripod as this will be useful for any car photography as well as anything being shot in poor lighting conditions.

Filters are useful depending on application but I would recommend you invest in AT LEAST a UV filter for ALL your lenses.. it's much easier to clean a filter or even replace it than it is to replace a whole lense if you scratch it etc.

Further to all this what Matt has written above is spot-on. You want to read and practice all the time, there is plenty of info online for you and there are magazines in newsagents etc, if you intend on focusing on car photography read up on it.

I'll also add, if you're starting out don't get too down when you take shots and they don't look as good as magazines/websites etc. You will find these days ALOT of the shots you see are not taken straight from the camera, they are often touched up in photoshop and you can turn an average looking photo into a good one with little work so try make yourself familiar with photoshop if your not. Sometimes just reducing the image size, cropping out unecessary parts and sharpening it up can make all the difference.

Feel free to PM me with any questions and if I can't answer I'll ask my mate who does photography professionally (if you know anybody else who does photography ask questions and advice, deviantart.com is also a good photo-sharing place and some of the members are happy to help)

Cheers,

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368596-d7000-camera-d/#findComment-5877500
Share on other sites

I'm going to add to this.

EVERY SHOT IS RE-TOUCHED. Be it in a magazine or website or where ever you see one. Most of the n00b's who haven't been shooting long and are new to the scene won't retouch or will do minimalistic re-touching but sooner or later, they will start editing more.

The point of shooting in RAW is that it is a RAW photo. The preview on your screen is of a JPEG image. Hence the contrast/colour/saturation/sharpness of it all etc.. but when you put that in photoshop as a RAW photo, you will lose all of it and it's up to you what you want to do with it.

I have 19 points of AF, and i only use one. I hate auto. It focuses where i don't want it to. I also don't shoot with a D7000, i shoot with a Canon 7D, but it's along the same lines. Zone focusing isn't bad, but again, when i want to be precise, i prefer using single point.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368596-d7000-camera-d/#findComment-5877753
Share on other sites

Definately turn off auto AF. Like Kory, I only use a single point, its far better in my opinion. I shoot 90% cars as well.

Also agreeing with "itsme", a UV filter is great insurance. All my lenses have them, and you never need to take them off. I've had to replace one because it got burnt from grinder sparks (I wasnt taking the photo, my mate was). Instead of destroying a $400 lens, it cost me $40 for a new filter! I know what I'd rather ;)

With the photoshopped thing, here is a before and after shot I took the other day.

Before:

IMG_3452.jpg

After:

IMG_3452.jpg

Nuff said!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368596-d7000-camera-d/#findComment-5878610
Share on other sites

Are you guys are referring to "AF-C" mode - where the camera takes an educated guess / a wild stab at what it should be focusing on? I've still got my D70 (very old school now) but in sports mode it'll switch to this mode where it contnually assesses what's in-frame and re-focuses accordingly; this happens continuously with the shutter button held halfway down. I get mixed results with that feature.

Thinking about upgrading to possibly a D700; prices seem firm at the moment though, particularly due to supply problems from Japan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368596-d7000-camera-d/#findComment-5878866
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...