Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, i just got new speakers installed at the rear and ever since that happened i've got really bad FM radio reception. could be a coincidence, but i'm thinking a wire or something has come loose at the back? the headunit was not touched at all. can anyone point me in the right direction towards a wire or anything?

i took a look in the boot and on the left hand side if u remove the panel theres a bunch of wires there.

btw i have a vdo head unit and the reception for radio has been clear for 2 yrs, now theres hissing and some static, depends which area i drive through.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36896-poor-radio-reception/
Share on other sites

hi guys, i just got new speakers installed at the rear and ever since that happened i've got really bad FM radio reception.  could be a coincidence, but i'm thinking a wire or something has come loose at the back?  the headunit was not touched at all.  can anyone point me in the right direction towards a wire or anything?  

i took a look in the boot and on the left hand side if u remove the panel theres a bunch of wires there.

btw i have a vdo head unit and the reception for radio has been clear for 2 yrs, now theres hissing and some static, depends which area i drive through.

cheers

All I can suggest is, disconnect the back speakers and see if the hissing disapears, then take it from there. It could have somthing to do with earthing...

Its an R33, the antenna is at the rear left. I think i'll open the boot and take out the rear left panel again and see if i can see anything wrong with the antenna leads, last time i took a look there a bunch of wires there and i didn't know which is which.

Didn't think it was necessary to ground the speakers? I thought you just need to ground the headunit.

I'll take some pics tomorrow.

i figured out why i have dodgy reception. when i installed my h/u i cbf going out n buying an antenna coversion plug, so i just soilded the wires together ect and i had an ect wire coming from somewhere so i left that unconnected. i think its the windscreen antenna thats not plugged in? but thats why its dodgy on mine.

i play cd's all the time anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Give it 40psi and send it to the moon
    • I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.
    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
×
×
  • Create New...