Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I have had my 2002 V35 300GT 5AT for 2 weeks now, and enjoying it thoroughly, but I would love to be able to draw a bit more power from the girl but there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of products out there for the 300GT and very rarely do I see anything about the older 2001-2002 models. A nudge in the right direction for some sort of ECU piggyback, or some other things for a good boost (not literal turbo boost :P) would be greatly appreciated. Also I find the shift speeds in both the Semi and Full-auto modes to be lacking in decisiveness, if anyone knows a cure for this ailment as well feel free to let me know.

Thanks,

Josh J.

hfc and exhausts and cai and and spacer if you can find them (search g35driver or ebay) tune for performance

grounding wires and tranny valve body (google g35 vavle body - transgo's the brand that makes some) for auto shifting

that should rack a bill of about 5k and you would probably be getting minimal gains to what your spending - there very hard cars to get some performance if you dont spend alot

other direction = s/c it then again it would probably cost more than the car to do so (or close to)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...