Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im about to get my power fc tonight was wondering what the std preset settings aer like on the power fc. my car is std boost with fmic, pod filter and exhaust. am i really just able to plug it in and drive off, im scared something will happen like it wont work or car will drive weird. anyone with experience can help me out???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36998-wats-std-power-fc-settings-like/
Share on other sites

i got my pfc last week and put it in the car around 30 minutes and drove away. The car is dream now to drive. Now the boost is strong and hard and you will manage to pull away from a lot of cars. Yeh you can drive it around no problems until you get it tunned. Just dont boost the crap out of it without knowing your limits. Nothing weird should happen unless you got your boost controller setting turned on which will stop you from starting the car.

hope this info helps

Ak

im about to get my power fc tonight was wondering what the std preset settings aer like on the power fc. my car is std boost with fmic, pod filter and exhaust. am i really just able to plug it in and drive off, im scared something will happen like it wont work or car will drive weird. anyone with experience can help me out???
Yes the default settings are fine for your car.  

If the car doesn't start make sure you have the Boost Controller option off .

Crap

Settings are fine for your car if you run 100 RON and are in (lower) Japan ambient temperatures.

Both my S15 and GTR pinged with the PFC factory settings in summer with less than a moderate boost (less than 1 bar).

Suggest tuning ASAP for the sake of engine insurance.

Crap

Settings are fine for your car if you run 100 RON and are in (lower) Japan ambient temperatures.

Both my S15 and GTR pinged with the PFC factory settings in summer with less than a moderate boost (less than 1 bar).

Suggest tuning ASAP for the sake of engine insurance.

Crap,

did you notice he said standard boost? I drove mine hard on hot summers days with out getting it tuned no probs - with standard boost. When it did go on the dyno, it was rich everywhere.

Yep - may have been rich, but the timing is quite advanced through the meat of the torque curve.

I've damaged two engines by driving them on PFC base maps - no one's fault but my own.

I can only speak for S15 and GTR units - but that's my experience and my advice. It's up to you vendetta if he wants to take it or not.

GAV- so will i be fine if i dont thrash the shit out of it. id get it tuned now but i want to wait to put a bigger fuel pump and then boost it to like 10-12. cos it will be a bit of a waste if i get it tuned now on std boost and fuel if im changing it in the near future. Gav if i just drive it like normal without punishing it until i get it tuned will i be safe or still damaging the engine

Steve- how long did you drive without getting it tuned and leaving it on standard pfc settings

If you HAVE to drive it untuned, keep the boost down and make sure the knock warning settings are turned on (same menu as the boost control kit, AFM max warning etc). If the knock warning goes off - believe it! In my experience the minimum setting (60?) is a little high and my tuner has heard knock below this.

BTW - Don't know what car you have. If it's a GTR, make sure you tune with the Datalogit as it gives a much better result (and heaps less dyno time!).

Don't think it's available for RB25 yet, however.

Anyway, good luck.

is it just a switch or do i need the hand controller to do it..do you guys have the hand controller with yours?

You need a HC to do this.

Crap

Settings are fine for your car if you run 100 RON and are in (lower) Japan ambient temperatures.

Both my S15 and GTR pinged with the PFC factory settings in summer with less than a moderate boost (less than 1 bar).

Suggest tuning ASAP for the sake of engine insurance.

PowerFC detonation sensor is set to go off above 60. For the entire duration I had the powerFC in the car before tuning I did not get above this (maybe a month or so). It was midyear then so the weather was cool and I was running 1 bar boost via removal of the boost solenoid. My car is a R33 GTR btw.

During this time I did hit full boost but did not do anything like extended power runs or track days. Gav, you speak from experience on this matter having damaged two engines but so am I. I did not get any detonation at all... seriously. When I did get the FC tuned the tuners advanced my ignition further anyway and leaned the mixtures.

GAV- so will i be fine if i dont thrash the shit out of it. id get it tuned now but i want to wait to put a bigger fuel pump and then boost it to like 10-12. cos it will be a bit of a waste if i get it tuned now on std boost and fuel if im changing it in the near future. Gav if i just drive it like normal without punishing it until i get it tuned will i be safe or still damaging the engine

Yes it would be a waste of money getting it tuned twice but then if you're worried why don't you wait for the fuel pump and then only put in the powerFC.

In my experience the minimum setting (60?) is a little high and my tuner has heard knock below this.

I think this would be debatable. This maybe the case but also on the flip side it come go above 60 and you can hear no pinging at all. The knock sensors in different cars may operate at different sensitivities due to age of car/wear/ whatever.... but I do not believe if the det sensor goes off in the PFC it means that detonation has occured. A few tuners have said this as well incl Hitman to name one.

im getting the power fc now as the price i got it for i doubt it id gdt it this cheap ever again. otherwise the power fc is the last thing id get.

When the power fc is brand new is it set to boost controll OFF std. as i dont have a HC. ???

What I meant is why don't you get it now and not put it in until you get your fuel pump. From memory the boost control is ON std but I have a bad memory :(

Boost control option will be ON by default for a new PFC.

Won't do any harm except that the engine check light will stay on.

I'm not sure if the engine check light will be able to flash in this mode, however, if you experience warnings (knock, max injectors, max AFM).

When i got my pfc and plugged it into my GTS25t it pinged its tits of.

After tuning it was fine.

If you want to see how good it runs with the base maps (with regard to pinging) set the hand controller to monitor detonation. It will log the current and the peak amount of detonation. I have been told that you can drive around with it pinging 20 all day. If you get over 60 that is the point your engine light will start flashing (if you have that option set in the pfc using the hc) and that is also the point at which i am told the pinging is audible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
    • @Stringycheese  Have you only gone to the one blue slip workshop?  There will be a heap of them where ever you live, good odds that the next place you go to will pass the car.  Unfortunately (or fortunately?) every blue slip / engineering workshop will be different and will be happy passing or failing different things - despite working from the same set of rules. It's kinda like 2 lawyers arguing over a piece of legislation, each saying their interpretation is correct. Might seem strange that this happens when it comes to getting a modified car passed, but this is very much a thing. A big part of the game is finding an engineer / workshop that is on the same page as you.
    • Bah. I daily mine. ~60km per work day, 10-12 thousand km per year. What's the point of having a dirty old Datto and leaving it in the shed. It needs to be driven and enjoyed while the govco allows us to do so. It will only be a few years before we're forbidden to even start up internal combustion engines.
    • Judging by that spring perch and the normal looking spring on it - not a coilover. Well.... it is a coilover, just a stock format coilover, rather than what everyone calls a coilover.
    • Yes it is. We get stock from Nismo directly. I'm happy to take photos/video of it as proof before I ship it with timestamps or whathaveyou.
×
×
  • Create New...