Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im about to get my power fc tonight was wondering what the std preset settings aer like on the power fc. my car is std boost with fmic, pod filter and exhaust. am i really just able to plug it in and drive off, im scared something will happen like it wont work or car will drive weird. anyone with experience can help me out???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36998-wats-std-power-fc-settings-like/
Share on other sites

i got my pfc last week and put it in the car around 30 minutes and drove away. The car is dream now to drive. Now the boost is strong and hard and you will manage to pull away from a lot of cars. Yeh you can drive it around no problems until you get it tunned. Just dont boost the crap out of it without knowing your limits. Nothing weird should happen unless you got your boost controller setting turned on which will stop you from starting the car.

hope this info helps

Ak

im about to get my power fc tonight was wondering what the std preset settings aer like on the power fc. my car is std boost with fmic, pod filter and exhaust. am i really just able to plug it in and drive off, im scared something will happen like it wont work or car will drive weird. anyone with experience can help me out???
Yes the default settings are fine for your car.  

If the car doesn't start make sure you have the Boost Controller option off .

Crap

Settings are fine for your car if you run 100 RON and are in (lower) Japan ambient temperatures.

Both my S15 and GTR pinged with the PFC factory settings in summer with less than a moderate boost (less than 1 bar).

Suggest tuning ASAP for the sake of engine insurance.

Crap

Settings are fine for your car if you run 100 RON and are in (lower) Japan ambient temperatures.

Both my S15 and GTR pinged with the PFC factory settings in summer with less than a moderate boost (less than 1 bar).

Suggest tuning ASAP for the sake of engine insurance.

Crap,

did you notice he said standard boost? I drove mine hard on hot summers days with out getting it tuned no probs - with standard boost. When it did go on the dyno, it was rich everywhere.

Yep - may have been rich, but the timing is quite advanced through the meat of the torque curve.

I've damaged two engines by driving them on PFC base maps - no one's fault but my own.

I can only speak for S15 and GTR units - but that's my experience and my advice. It's up to you vendetta if he wants to take it or not.

GAV- so will i be fine if i dont thrash the shit out of it. id get it tuned now but i want to wait to put a bigger fuel pump and then boost it to like 10-12. cos it will be a bit of a waste if i get it tuned now on std boost and fuel if im changing it in the near future. Gav if i just drive it like normal without punishing it until i get it tuned will i be safe or still damaging the engine

Steve- how long did you drive without getting it tuned and leaving it on standard pfc settings

If you HAVE to drive it untuned, keep the boost down and make sure the knock warning settings are turned on (same menu as the boost control kit, AFM max warning etc). If the knock warning goes off - believe it! In my experience the minimum setting (60?) is a little high and my tuner has heard knock below this.

BTW - Don't know what car you have. If it's a GTR, make sure you tune with the Datalogit as it gives a much better result (and heaps less dyno time!).

Don't think it's available for RB25 yet, however.

Anyway, good luck.

is it just a switch or do i need the hand controller to do it..do you guys have the hand controller with yours?

You need a HC to do this.

Crap

Settings are fine for your car if you run 100 RON and are in (lower) Japan ambient temperatures.

Both my S15 and GTR pinged with the PFC factory settings in summer with less than a moderate boost (less than 1 bar).

Suggest tuning ASAP for the sake of engine insurance.

PowerFC detonation sensor is set to go off above 60. For the entire duration I had the powerFC in the car before tuning I did not get above this (maybe a month or so). It was midyear then so the weather was cool and I was running 1 bar boost via removal of the boost solenoid. My car is a R33 GTR btw.

During this time I did hit full boost but did not do anything like extended power runs or track days. Gav, you speak from experience on this matter having damaged two engines but so am I. I did not get any detonation at all... seriously. When I did get the FC tuned the tuners advanced my ignition further anyway and leaned the mixtures.

GAV- so will i be fine if i dont thrash the shit out of it. id get it tuned now but i want to wait to put a bigger fuel pump and then boost it to like 10-12. cos it will be a bit of a waste if i get it tuned now on std boost and fuel if im changing it in the near future. Gav if i just drive it like normal without punishing it until i get it tuned will i be safe or still damaging the engine

Yes it would be a waste of money getting it tuned twice but then if you're worried why don't you wait for the fuel pump and then only put in the powerFC.

In my experience the minimum setting (60?) is a little high and my tuner has heard knock below this.

I think this would be debatable. This maybe the case but also on the flip side it come go above 60 and you can hear no pinging at all. The knock sensors in different cars may operate at different sensitivities due to age of car/wear/ whatever.... but I do not believe if the det sensor goes off in the PFC it means that detonation has occured. A few tuners have said this as well incl Hitman to name one.

im getting the power fc now as the price i got it for i doubt it id gdt it this cheap ever again. otherwise the power fc is the last thing id get.

When the power fc is brand new is it set to boost controll OFF std. as i dont have a HC. ???

What I meant is why don't you get it now and not put it in until you get your fuel pump. From memory the boost control is ON std but I have a bad memory :(

Boost control option will be ON by default for a new PFC.

Won't do any harm except that the engine check light will stay on.

I'm not sure if the engine check light will be able to flash in this mode, however, if you experience warnings (knock, max injectors, max AFM).

When i got my pfc and plugged it into my GTS25t it pinged its tits of.

After tuning it was fine.

If you want to see how good it runs with the base maps (with regard to pinging) set the hand controller to monitor detonation. It will log the current and the peak amount of detonation. I have been told that you can drive around with it pinging 20 all day. If you get over 60 that is the point your engine light will start flashing (if you have that option set in the pfc using the hc) and that is also the point at which i am told the pinging is audible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
    • Murphy strikes again! Nothing at all would have gone wrong if you had the tool kit in the car! You'd have just found the clamp loose the next time you went to touch it...
    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
×
×
  • Create New...