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ohwww boiii :(

i need a daily car gain peeps so poppin this up!

all built by ME and Japanese Motorsport here in adelaide.

tuned by Morrie at Horsepowerinabox.com

running gear

rb25det neo

cometic 1.8mm head gasket

head faced and checked ect,

band new gates timing belt, tensioners and cam seals ect.

new genuine nissan water pump

New black jacket R34 coilpacks

Greddy ntake plenum

650cc injectors

RB25DE throttle body

R31 GTS-R exhaust manifold ( worth big $$$)

TB4301 garret internally gated turbo ( comes on strong at 4500 )

Apexi power FC with commander

Earls oil cooler

304 rwkw on 14 psi , 340 rwkw 17 psi . plenty more in it .

Driveline

Mint Rb25 det gearbox with short shifer

Exedy twin plate clutch ( rated to 400 rwkw )

Locked R200 vlsd.

sus and brakes

Whiteline adjustable front and rear swaybars

whiteline fron upper adjustable arms

K mac front adjustable lower control arms

alloy cradle bushes

Tein HA coilovers

Tomei electric hicas lockout

R32 GTR calipers front and rear

Slotted frnt and rear rotors

Braided ADR aprved brake lines

Bm50 brake master cyl

GTR rear strut brace

Cusco front strut brace

interior

GTR rear seat

GTR door trims

GTR carpet

Recaro drivers seat ( pretty haggus ) lol

pillar mountd sard boost guage

polished interor plastics

sound dedning removed.

exterior

series 2 headlights

series 2 front guards

series 2 front bar

Type M side skirts

400R rear bar

Ducktail lip

will come with

18x8.5 +10 and 18x9.5 +13 avs model 5 twin spokes.

The car does need the front painted and is defected in SA, s is being sold as a track car only.

This car si a ball tearer , and deffinatly isnt fo the faint harted.

11,500 or swaps for something of interest.

the engine package is worth over 10k alone, im sure theres alot of people on here that know waht these GTSR maifolds are worth!

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  • 4 months later...

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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