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R32 Gtst - Track Car


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So I built this and I thought Id share:






I dont know where to start as im putting this up as a completed build, it took us 8 months and alot went on so see how it goes with the explanations.


I have been drifting for 5 years at state and national level in an r32 4 door with the odd grip lap thrown in there at RAC driving centre tuning days etc now looking to still drift for a bit of fun but will be doing some 'proper' track work and learning how to drive straight


Aim is to drive it have some fun, do different type of events and just pull it out when I want to drive it and pack it away when I dont. For now keep it at the level where if something breaks ie: engine or g/box I can fix and drive it again and not have it sitting around for 6 mths to rebuild a 20k engine. Concentrated on a solid balanced car and if anything would be concentrating on reducing the weight further rather than looking for too much more power


Apologise for crap photos but some pics are better than none and it just got finished Saturday arvo and I ran it this sunday gone


Basically I bought the car as a painted shell with the cage in it done by Racing dynamics, tubbed fronts and cut out boot with ATL fuel cell framed with chrome moly so good starting point


Then the build started:

Engine / driveline

rb25 'standard' - head done by head torque, Metal head gasket, ARP bolts, poncams, custom large capcity sump

Gtx 3076 with 0.82 rear

6 boost

Tial 44 wastegate

Custom intake

Plazmaman intake plenum

ID1000's + fuel rail

Spitfire coils

Vipec v88 ecu

Custom catch can with drain to sump

Custom Intercooler piping

Koyo Rad

PWR intercooler

HKS oil cooler

Aeroflow p/s cooler

Chasebays P/s pump + coolant resivour

Exedy Clutch

Std rb25 gearbox

Kazz 2 way with 4.11

Custom dump and exhaust with v band = sidepipe

Custom full car rewire + engine harness

All braided lines with speedflow fittings for oil, water, wategate, fuel lines

ATL fuel cell - custom framing

ext lift pump

2 x ext bosch fuel pumps on ally surge tank w/ micro filter



Suspension / Brakes / Wheels

Tien Drift coilovers

Whiteline Sways F/R


s15 rack

Tien tie rods + ends

Power by Max LCA's + castor rods

Kazama camber arms

3up knuckles - very mild


S14 subframe - braced w/ custom mounting points

Zenki LCA's

Kazama Camber arms

Kazama Toe arms


R34 GTR Brembo calipers

Project Mu single peice rotars

Project Mu HC + pads all round

K Sport Hydro h/brake

Braided lines all round

GTR brake booster w/ bm50 bmc



18 x 10 + 15 rims - Rota's (yes i have 12 due to drifting will upgrade later)

Will start on 265 Achillies 123's but have Yoko 050's in the shed ready for curcuit


Interior / exterior

Racing Dynamics cage

Air Jacks for rear - port will be in fuel flap

Full gutted doors + rear parcel replaced with 2mm ally powdercoated black

Floor pan drivers + passenger side (not is yet)

Cobra drivers seat / Bride passenger seat + harnesses

Std dash, switch panel, Autometer gauge setup in dash + working fuel gauge for ATL fuel cell

Lithium battery (1.7kg)

3mm Lexan windows all round




Origin full bodykit

Have 2 x spare bodykits

Have various front bars - Gtr etc

Carbon Jun style lip

Abflug carbon front under tray

Jun style reatr carbon diffuser

Gtr front gaurds - also have Dmax frp gaurds

Rear flares

Origin GT wing 1700mm

Custom fab work: (by PSA / Precision suspension)

Intercooler / rad / front bar / light support

Rear Boot frame for wing although attached to boot goes onto fram which goes to chasiss

Window frames for lexan windows (pillarless doors) + door handles

Exhaust w/ v band

Catch Can

Fuel Filler







Tuned on Allstar dyno on pump E85 = 500hp - 550nm full boost 4100 at 20psi bleeding it off to 17psi (drift tune)


Will drive the car now and get used to it and make all the little adjustments as we go if I do more circuit work I will run another map and tune so it doesnt blow the tyres off also get proper rear wing etc


Havent weighed the car yet but totally guessing about 1240kg ??






Lots and progress to come and be made on the car but for now onto driving it !

Im not very good at updating and all that but will see how we go ..

thanks for reading (if you have got this far haha)

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who here has had there car tuned for different boost levels in different gears?

ie: 2nd gear wastegate pressure and 3rd / 4th gear linear progression ? and does / did it make it easier to drive and improve lap times?

or do you just get full boost with most response all the same in all gears and pedal it with the right foot

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  • 2 months later...

not so awesome update

the only thing 'old' on this car after the finished build was the engine - it had 18 months of drift on it ... so after a state drift comp on boxing day I went out on a track day


- half way through I got the death rattle. Packed it up on the trailer (winched) and took it home


i havent pulled engine apart yet but im calling broken oil pump..

And there it sat till last weekend as I bought a new house and reno'd it straight away so had no time at all - so now that finshed back into cars

So engine is coming out and bought another rb25 already put together for a good price - std bottom end, head reconed etc etc performance spring, poncams ( I already have a set now I have a spare ?!) new water pump and gasket set blaa bllaa


so hopefully in next week or two back for a touch up tune, then some consistant track days to get some seat time and enjoy driving this thing as im hanging out !

Edited by bcozican
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Thanks... it wouldnt be my colour of choice if I started from scratch for a track car - it would be gloss black - cheap, clean and easy to repair but bought the shell already painted

but I have grown to like it ...alot ..... its different but not super crazy (especially compared to my last car for drift had crazy colours and livery)

its a Ford colour then a HEAP of fleck put through it ... cost mega $$$ for the guy to paint and i realise this as i just bought 2L of it to paint up spare bodykit stuff and wow ! not he best for a track car but I just wont bin it hopefully

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hi, awesome build i am slowly building a 4 door gts-t as well, is that idle with the Tomei 254 8.5mm poncams? and do you have any more videos of the idle?

also are you able to open the rear doors with those flairs on?

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awesome nice to see more 4 doors coming out !

yeah that idle is with 256 drop in poncams - what make it sound like that is 1) sidepipe (but I used to run straight through pipe to back and it was the same) but also major contributor is it has rotational idle

no more vids as yet but will get some up asap no problems

as it stands re: flairs i can open the rear door - the flares are put on by nutserts so literally takes 10 secs to take em off and open the door - this was done on purpose as the first time had the car at the track everyone opening rear door to have a look and fiddle with air jacks

but my last car was 4 door also and put the flairs below the door line along that lip and could open and close door no problems as per below:


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was the rotational idle just for sound or is there a functional reason for it, from what i know about it, its normally used for anti-lag,

mine is a while away, it was a simple RB20 build till that gave up the ghost, now it's getting a RB30 with those cams and some other bits.

so you don't find it a hassle taking the flares off anytime you want to get in the back of the car?

Edited by Looney_Head
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personally I just let my tuner do their thing but he said yes helps reduce temps quicker because something about in certain ecu modes you can run it 'independant' to use for antilag so changes the firing order which causes less heat ... dont quote me as such there as I didnt pay alot of attention as dont really care too much

but in reality Id say alot of it has to do with the sounds haha... just because you can

I started first car on rb20 = cool ! then rb2.2 then rb25 ;)

we dont have to get into the back alot because there is literally nothing in the back except cage, brake lines and airjacks - so no real problems for me .... we (and I have seen others do this) were going to cut them along the line of the door seam so the flare becomes two parts and can open and close the door as normal and doesnt look too bad but have had no need yet... or just run them like my other car under the door itself but it does cause some restriction on height / rim tuck etc

bare in mind where and how you fit the flares does depend on ride height + setup like subframe, alignments , rims, tyres offset etc to what will fit and what size flares to get took a bit of trial and error, because I run my rear soft it squats alot so cut the fenders metal up 1" and rewelded it all neat n tidy

also run an s14 rear subrame with is about 10mm wider each side than normal gtst with rim 10" +15

i just wanted to be able to run as wide as i could without spacers and without major guard work

Edited by bcozican
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What type/brand of air jack do you run mate and where is it mounted specifically? This thing is sick needs more pics and videos though!

haha fair enough man pics always good - i agree

re: air jacks - I used k sport. As per pics there are positioned in the rear tops welded directly to the cage, underneath its boxed out for support the whole way through. Lines run to join for bulkhead through to boot. I havent finshed off the final connector yet that will come out the fuel flap



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as I have the engine out and car half apart prob a good chance to take some pics:

APR carbon mirrors with fabbed ally backing plates:


Boot with fuel system etc and ally frame boxed and going to chasis for wing mounting so it actually does something


Wing mounts to boot and connects straight to frame - need better stays etc but that will come in time


'The office' as they call it


2mm ally door cards with fully gutted doors, fabbed handle etc etc - never actually weighed the door in full yet but they are very light about 12 + kg saving per door


Inside view of lexan windows - the 4 side windows and rear window weighed 24kg in total the lexan weighed 12kg. The frames are bolted to the doors for easy removal and are made of hollow .8mm stainless steel powdercoated black all up with screwed added back approx 800g per door - rear lexan was put in and sealed just like original glass


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Old engine out on the left - new engine being prepped ready for all the goodies and cop a hiding on the right


With engine out can show how clean and basic the engine bay is now - all the gaps in the wall been filled and welded + painted ...all braided brake lines, braided wastegate lines, braided powersteering lines also running s15 rack


Powersteering and coolant resi - relocated and small etc neat + do the job


having previouos also had r32 4 door and built that up slowly bit by bit for the last 5 years have learn alot about suspension so we transferred that knowledge to this car and so far for the little driving ive done in it its great !

Front suspension + brake setup - powered by Max LCA + castor rod combo sitting approx + 30 wider than std, whiteline sways, brembo's project mu rotors etc


Rear subrame shot - running s14 rear subframe with solid offset bushes - this is +10 mm each side wider than standard with better geometry - also you can see full subframe bracing kit by Gkteck - in addition we have changed the LCA pickup points... this flattens the LCA and the additional mechanical grip it provides is awesome. its based off the 90's Jap drag GTR's and makes a good amount of difference, as you can see custom mounting points for the rear sway was needed too


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and just another little view of side pipe + fresh tyres - also shows how wide the rear sits now

I havent measured it exactly but my trailer is 1950 wide and there is an about 5cm odd a side so about 1850 wide id say little narrower at the front for now - std r32 gtst is 1460 wide so added nearly 20cm of total width


Edited by bcozican
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