R32 Gtst - Track Car

[r32gtrdrc]

and just another little view of side pipe + fresh tyres - also shows how wide the rear sits now

I havent measured it exactly but my trailer is 1950 wide and there is an about 5cm odd a side so about 1850 wide id say little narrower at the front for now - std r32 gtst is 1460 wide so added nearly 20cm of total width

Side pipe - close up.jpg

I'm diggin that side pipe.......Did you knock it up or have PSA fab it?( please pm me with a phone no if possible)

ta

[bcozican]

PSA did it - too good for me to create - PM sent

[XRATED]

Super keen on any further details on the PBM lower control arms and rear end mods.

I use PBM gear under my drift hack... heavy duty and well designed, especially for the money.

Are you doing anything with the top arm in the front end?

Cheers

J.

[bcozican]

I have UAS front adj camber arms up top just swapped them out for my old kazama ones (that I had in there for 3 years and looked brand new anyway)

PBM gear is their LCA and castor rod combo that comes together as one - its actually for drift ...as the castor rod pick up point is moved but I have a grip aligment in it now and its -3.5 deg camber and 7 castor ( pretty much what i had on the front for drift anyway) ...but its maxed at 7 castor the way we set it up

LCA's have heaps of adjustment in them and as you say a very strong... little bit heavy tbh but rather strength and not break

from a drift and lock p.o.v:

I went from a s13de rack with std s14 LCA's widening another 15mm and kazama castor rods and tie rods ends with my 3up mild knuckles to

s15 rack, PBM combo LCA's + approx 30mm + castor and Tien tie rods ends + knuckles.... and the difference in lock is hugely better with the new combo

Rear end.. what would you like to know ?

S14 has better geometry built into the cradle (more antisquat) is about 10mm wider each side also, the gkteck bracing definately helped from getting a tiny bit of flex in the cradle to none for 3kg extra weight added. Changing the pickup points for the rear LCA's is a bit too techincal for my words but flattens the LCA's more under load and this and that, definately made a significant difference in rear end forward drive.

Its been done to a few cars over here now moreso circuit cars and all have had positives..although mine is drift based to date on the same everything ie: alignment, rear spring setting and tyre I went from needing 18psi in the rears to about 26psi in the rears for the same given speed / grip level after this mod at Barbs which is a high speed track

Edited March 30, 2015 by bcozican

[XRATED]

Im interested to see how you go with the geometry changes the pbm arms and knuckles give you, if your getting into circuit work. The Ackerman changes (we found the pbm knuckles in my drift car cut the Ackerman in half without rack location changes), less caster gain? and more camber gain through the full range of motion?

cheers

J.

[Neil]

Love your side pipe mate and I would love to run one but isn't it to loud.

Have you ever been pulled up for excessive noise?.

I'm restricted to 95db at 30 metres at all hillclimb events.

Cheers

Neil.

[bcozican]

Im interested to see how you go with the geometry changes the pbm arms and knuckles give you, if your getting into circuit work. The Ackerman changes (we found the pbm knuckles in my drift car cut the Ackerman in half without rack location changes), less caster gain? and more camber gain through the full range of motion?

cheers

J.

Yeah see there you go getting all techincal again hahaha, started reading about ackerman etc etc but never sunk in and just let it go... im one of those you give me something to drive and i'll just drive it with a bit a tech thrown in there.

But yes I does seems more camber gain less castor ie: more unstable at higher speeds for cuircuit work. Barbagello and Collie our other main track are very point and shoot really so see how I go.

When I started the build I was going to stay with drift hence the setup then got a little over it, 3up knuckles are very very mild (and I still have std knuckles in spare parts bin) but the PBM gear is not optimally suited to cuircuit work first thing my wheel aligner said - more so the castor rod but can change that... ultimately will see how far / fast I can push the car with this setup first then if I get serious will change... also am still going to drift a little just for fun

Love your side pipe mate and I would love to run one but isn't it to loud.

Have you ever been pulled up for excessive noise?.

I'm restricted to 95db at 30 metres at all hillclimb events.

Cheers

Neil.

Not been out yet much Neil but no never been pulled up , even my last car was loud same setup with straight through 3" etc. W.A seems a little bit more relaxed over here and the 2 times they have had the DB meter out I knew the guys and they magically turned it away each time I came by

But thinking forward should I get pinged I have had the exhaust made in 3 pieces and with v band connections... so the middle piece is quickly and easily removed (once exhaust cools lol) and I have a mid muffler made to replace that exact piece with v band etc so will just bang that up and in if I want to continue for that event and future etc

Edited March 31, 2015 by bcozican

[AngryRB]

That sounds awesome and the rear wheel arch suits it, gives it a wider look...

[iruvyouskyrine]

Hey mate. With the S14 subframe when you changed the LCA mount what exactly did you do. In one pic I can see you lowered the front mounting point but can't see much else. I'm also building a 32 drift car and currently debating whether I will go S13 or S14 subframe. I already have the S13 one and everything I need but can go a S14 one if the benefit is there.

[bcozican]

S13 and r32 cradles are exactly the same so no point changing to the s13

the advantage of s14 / s15 is the improved geometry changes they built into them from factory so for any benefit will have to go s14

To put the s14 cradle in you'll have too:

- get offset bushes.. I used Gktech

- use s14 LCA's (std is fine)

- put a s14 backing plate on your r32 diff (flatter)

- 'massage' the chasis rails about 10mm+ higher at a spot where it hits - not a big area just for clearance issues (3 out of 4 cars we done it on have this issue) first car I just warmed up the area and hit with mallet, this chasis i notched it out and welded

you dont need to do the LCA mount adjustment to have advantages from the s14 cradle conversion but going through the stages of r32 subframe, then s14 subframe with no LCA mod to the s14 with the mod i did notice a difference

I will take more pics this weekend and post up so you can see more clearly but ...

that front mounting point is the basic critical point, eveything else can be adjusted around that with ride height and alignment. As you may see adjusting the front point is what flattens out the LCA. I have 3 holes at different levels built into that so there is a 'ladder' system for that one point so it can be adjusted to suit ride height, grip levels required etc etc

and from there we had clearance issues with the sway bar so a simple 'box out' welded to the chasis fixed that

[bcozican]

Few random pics as we go:

Head to block drain - dont know about you guys but this was a PITA sometimes to move, put on etc especially when in the car so we made it into a fitting style thats easily screwed on and off and in sections if needed

Also off turbo to block made the drain similar fitting style etc

Edited April 10, 2015 by bcozican

[bcozican]

Also while waiting on gaskets etc to finish putting motor back in I have been playing around with my spare front bumpers i will get painted up etc and my 'aero' / cosmetic 'aero' to see what it would look like

Been talking to a few people on here and they have given me pointers on where to start for splitters etc in the future so thanks !

And I know seat time and seat time and seat time is most important but this is also about the build for me as well as driving for now

But for now:

Gtr front bar with Abflug

Gtr front bar with Jun Style Lip - was thinking about putting a simple ally undertray attached to this

Jun style CF rear diffuser

Anyone with any thoughts on all this im happy to hear... good and bad, what may work with what or can be modified to work better, a little for looks as I still like a decent looking ca but also actual efficiency and track practicality - as im building this car for both sort of atm

Edited April 10, 2015 by bcozican

[BOZ22N]

Very nice mate

[bcozican]

Hey mate. With the S14 subframe when you changed the LCA mount what exactly did you do. In one pic I can see you lowered the front mounting point but can't see much else. I'm also building a 32 drift car and currently debating whether I will go S13 or S14 subframe. I already have the S13 one and everything I need but can go a S14 one if the benefit is there.

Pics of front pick up point change

Lowering sway bar mount point

[bcozican]

New engine is in and tuned on Friday morning - all went well, solid no problems

Out to a tuning afternoon Friday afternoon - great to get some really decent seat time and just drive

My lines were terrible and have lots to learn but also wasnt really concentrating too hard on that moreso just driving and getting use to / enjoying the car. Its quick in straight line and has ample braking atm just tried different damper settings etc to see what would work and not

I must have done something bad to someone up there as I have no luck at the moment...top of 4th gear back straight bonnet pins sheared off and I got the bonnet meeting the windscreen and roof real quick, so annoying bonnet and windscreen easily replaced ... roof is arrrrgghhhhh and will be tough to fix properly as its over half the roof.... at least you can still drive it with a bent roof....just wouldve been nice to keep it nicer for longer but will fix

Pics with mates 2jz s14

on Track

[Dale FZ1]

Good looking rig. Pity about the panel damage. I'm using similar bonnet pin setup, going to check them over. It's odd they both failed - are you sure they were locked in place properly?

[Neil]

Yea that sucks mate. I'm using the same locks as well,,,You've made Dale and I paranoid.

Were they the genuine ones or the cheaper chinese versions?.

[bcozican]

Oh dont worry you guys not the only ones to get nervous ... no one could believe it really.

They are genuine they were a year old (just sitting in packet) till I put them in. They have survived other trackdays and this was about the 25th lap for the day and 3rd lap in for the session so they were in properly. I could see the bonnet getting its shake / lift on each time down the back straight but have seen it before and many a time on other cars

I dont have a speedo but another car there recons he hitting 192 in same spot and I was quicker so was honking along but yeah

Maybe I am just friggin unlucky but I will be going back to normal bonnet pins regardless and prob run 4 haha

Just wanna spend coin on seat time tyres and fuel not fixing... but thats racing

[bcozican]

So roof has been repaired and off to paint today - stoked what he did with it - stretched and shrunk the metal etc rather than just bogging it up only used 300g odd of bog he said

Also while car is out of action and there is painting going on sorted out my gtr front bar which is off to get painted also - putting the Jun style cf lip on it and because the intercooler sits so far back mucked around and completed an ali air guide for it should do the trick

Edited May 25, 2015 by bcozican

[FLN75S]

I'm always impressed with what the good panel beaters can fix without just using a couple kilos of bog. Car is Looking good.