Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ya'll, put this thread in the forced induction section on a previous post but no ones replying

Just had a Garrett Gt 30 turbo, 650cc injectors, Z32 airflow meter put in my R34 GTT RB25DET with other mods put in before

Greddy FMIC

Xforce exhaust system

Walbro fuel pump

Turbosmart boost controller

Nistune

Podfilter

Currently running 214rwkw or 287hp. My tuner and mechanic is Andy at Hyperdrive in Malaga W.A.

Now he came across a small issue, that prevented the engine not reaching its potential, as closely as i recall he said that while he was tuning it he had set the boost to 13 but then it would go back down to 9 then work its way back to 13. The power from the turbo doesn't kick in until bout 3000-3500rpm, and he wants it to come on in that mid range of 2000-25000rpm, so that the engine can get what he estimated which was about 310-320hp. Andys told me hes calling up the turbo and boost controller peeps to see what they say, but anyone who has dealt with Andy knows he doesn't mess around with ya car.

Also has a idle issue sounds like the engine wants to stall.

If anyone who knows what the issue is, or what it could possibly be let me or Andy know. Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371157-engine-issues-for-r34/
Share on other sites

which boost controller is it, i know it says turbosmart but which one, what is the spring pressure of the waste gate, i'm going to guess 8-9psi and if so then get rid of that boost controller and get a good jap one.

i've had both and i don't care what anyone says the turbosmart e-boosts in my opinion are rubbish, i had one do a similar thing to me in the R32 after it was set up by CRD (so set properly), it came out the next day and a HKS EVC5 went in and no more problems

internal or external gate?

few simple tests to be done first. exactly what does it do with no boost controller (just running off gate/actuator pressure)?

next try a run with the signal line pulled off the gate and see what it does, stop if it goes above ~15psi

this will tell you if its your boost controller or the gate

I don't know mate I'm a chef not a mechanic, i can cook a mad feed, but wouldn't trust myself to touch the engine, not my area of expertize, but all these things i will jot down and tell Andy maybe he might know, but seriously keep the info comin fellas i need the help to fix this problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...