Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well friday was a little dissapointing.

ran into a few issues on the dyno.

vct controller was turning on and registered rpm, but it wasnt actually doing anything. next problem was that the tps wasnt getting a signal either. apparently these two problems are linked. the way the 25 has been wired, i apparently missed the part that said i needed to power a wire from the ecu that gives power to the vct solenoid and tps. so i will be fixing that during the week.

next problem and a bigger one is that the bee*r rev limiter isnt letting the engine rev past 6000rpm.

unfortunately they ran outta time to disconnect the bee*r and fix the vct/tps and so the tune has only been partly done, and will require a little touch up once these things have been fixed.

having said that, it made 201.9rwkw on 14.5psi limited to 6krpm.

  • 4 weeks later...

and we have game over....

finally decided to do a compression test on the 25 to see if it would tell me why the cars a pig to start cold, random idles on 5 cylinders (but will rev and drive on 6) and why from time to time itll just blow a massive cloud of blue smoke as i pull up to a set of lights/stop (never does it driving or under boost).

so compression test results returned this

cold

80

80

110

120

80

120

warm

140

120

145

145

100

135

i wasnt to worried till i got to number 5 on the warm test.

put a little oil in the bore to see if itd bring compression up a bit but it still only read 100psi.

so im assuming rings are real happy in general but somethin else. maybe head gasket/head is the cause of the low readings on 2 and especially 5.

  • 1 month later...

have neglected this thread as much as the laurel lately.

after the comp test i got a leak down test done on it.

which confirmed the valves are f**ked in number 5. 75% leak trough the exhaust valves.

ive since sold my statesman and bought an r31 as a daily.

so the money from the statesman is gettin dumped on the laurel.

have bought a recon head for it. and this weekend ill hopefully find the motivation to pull the engine out.

then its time to pull it down. measure up and buy parts.

will be gettin forged pistons and new bearings and as i got the recon head for half the price of havin mine done ill likely slap some pon cams in it also.

Well I just bought a new engine. Picking it up next week.

Recon head. New bearings. Waterpump. Timing belt.

Which means ill have a series 2 rb25 long block for sale with a spare recon head. Paid $600for the head on sunday... found the full motor yesturday. Always the way. Haha

Picking up new engine on thursday night.

Picking up some 850cc denso injectors tonight. And have got a tomei fpr and top feed rail ordered from fleabay.

Gonna run it on e85 this time.

Just need to get manifold gaskets and studs. And then start swinging them spanners again. Eta 2 weeks.

Its goin to be very mildly tuned to start with. Goin from 180rwkw rb20. Ill be more then happy with a measly 220rwkw for now. Need to try and prolong the life of the rb20 box till I can afford an rb25 box and tail shaft

  • 2 weeks later...

engine came out on thursday night.

stripped down the block friday night.

spent saturday morning fitting the exhaust side to the new block, then attempted to fit my top feed injectors and fuel rail to my inlet manifold.....

....thats where everything went to shit.

the rail doesnt fit. at all.

was going to make up some brackets to make it fit, but then I found a greddy copy front facing plenum on gumtree for $200 so grabbed that today.

I know they aren't the best things in the world, but this ones been cleaned up and faced so should be all sweet.

haha yeah as far i was aware they were all made to fit stock manifold....

but thats right. will look sexy and lets face it, the stock manifold and piping isnt exactly the nicest thing to look at.

as for the loss in midrange, im sure i wont even notice it. coming from a 20. everything gonna feel torquey as hell haha.

and for a "freddy" manifold it looks pretty good, to be honest.

Lucky I wish mine was raw. Check all your threads aswell before you go bolting it on. Mine had a few dodgy threads which I just ran a tap through. Will be a pain to get to some when its on. And if you have access to one, die grind the water jackets out a bit bigger, to match your gasket, same with your ports. I through my gasket on mine and got a paint pen to mark out the overlap and just ground it out and smoothed it so it matched the ports. Wasnt much to come off but may aswell.

so manifold is on,

bypassed the heater as the core leaks and the oil warmer.

next problem. is that my injectors dont fit my rail because its so badly made that the ports the injectors fit into are different depths ranging from 8.4m to 11.9mm.

so gotta get another rail,

and i have to do somethin about the dowel thats in my crank. for some reason my flywheel doesn't have the hole to accept said dowel..

anyways. no one really reads this crap, so here's some pictures

20131107_191810.jpg

20131107_211455.jpg

20131107_213548.jpg

20131111_192634.jpg

20131112_210714.jpg

20131115_185416.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
×
×
  • Create New...