Jump to content
SAU Community

Dyno'd My V35 At The Sau:sa Dyno Day

Nightcrawler
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, just thought I would post up some info about my mods and current power level, for those interested in what power levels we can expect out of the VQ35, for what mods.

Back when I bought the V35 2 years ago she made 151rwkw, stock, 5AT.

Since then I have done a few 'engine' related mods including:

Kinetix intake plenum

Ground Wires

Kinetix High flow cats

Megan Racing Y-Pipe

Custom 3" mid pipe

Cheap Chinese rear muffler

CF Intake pipe

HKS panel filter

Oil Catch can

Fitted an SAFCII but NOT tuned yet - ECU is completely untuned.

So at the SAU:SA dyno day last weekend she made 175rwkw - the SAME dyno as the 151rwkw.

Note that this is a Mainline dyno - not a 'Disney' dyno like most - so power levels are much lower than other dynos around the country. For your reference an individual with an RB25 R32 had made 205rwkw on a Dyno Dymanics dyno recently, then made 155rwkw at Willalls. Admittedly he seemed to be running less boost, but other people got up to 25% lower than what they had previously dynod on other dynos around town too, and it is a common occurrence.

Anyways, that is my story so far. Enjoy the dyno graph.

And you can see my dyno run at the 6:55 mark of this video :

Also, in the video make sure you check out 5:22 - it is RH9 - the Willall Racing original - it used to make 680awkw, but is now detuned and has smaller turbos to run on the track. Still sounds angry!

post-669-0-00231500-1313676570_thumb.jpg

post-669-0-29215900-1313676685_thumb.jpg

post-669-0-94090500-1313676691_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374530-dynod-my-v35-at-the-sausa-dyno-day/
Share on other sites
Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks. Yeah I am hoping for another 10 or so when it is tuned. Sadly they were only using 1 wideband probe on the dyno day, and during my dyno run it became dislodged, so I have nfi what my afrs are like. I assume she is running a bit rich, as per normal factory ECUs. I am also getting a resonator fitted this week, as with the HFCs and new 3" mid pipe, it is very raspy. I am assured these will not kill any power, but just take the edge off the raspy sound, and mellow her out.

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah turned out that Gavin's Red R35 had had a computer tune-up the week before and Martin Donnon had inadvertently left the car in valet mode. It is tuned there and has made about 340rwkw every single time it has been dyno'd before. For reference a Series 3 R35GTR with the same mods as Gavin's (mid-pipe and Cobb tune) made 361rwkw on the same dyno the other week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...