Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

am considering selling my 180sx for financial reasons. This car past registration only a week ago. Comes FULLY engineered so everything is legal. I am in the ACT.

Basic:

1991 Nissan 180sx Black

Veilside front bar and sideskirts

18" Chrome wheels with 215/35ZR front and 225/40ZR18 rear (18x7)

Tyres tread 95% rear, 90% front (where 10% is bald)

Odom reads 109954

Engine kms ~100,000

Alarm with keyless entry fitted

Mechanical:

RB25DET engine fitted in good condition

Timing belt replaced ~500km ago

All other belts replaced ~500km ago

NGK Plantnium spark plugs fitted ~200km ago

Spitfire Coils

Aftermarket clutch fitted. Can't remember brand (XTR maybe?) fitted with engine ~2000km ago. No slip, good feel.

New Bosch battery fitted ~200 ago (cost $90)

Bosch 600hp fuel pump fitted (cost $350)

Water pump replaced ~500km ago

RB20 Gearbox fitted (MUCH cheaper to repair/replace than RB25. Good for 250rwkw)

Air pod fitted

Front mounted intercooler fitted, roughly good for 400hp

Brakes upgraded to SR20 Turbo spec

3" Exhaust from the dump back (Stock dump) with 4" muffler (sounds great. maybe illegal noise so a restrictor plate is included for rego)

Std height king springs front, standard rear. Suspension otherwise standard

Standard BOV

Larger radiator fitted ~500km ago (cost $350)

Interior:

Speco Boost gauge mounted @ A-Pillar

Aftermarket steering wheel (Smaller, more 'sporty')

Good quality cd head deck with four good quality 6x9 speakers.

Minor damage to front bar from scraping a gutter. Have been quoted ~$150 to repair.

Minor dent ontop of front right panel. Around 5cm in diameter, 1cm deep. NO paint chipped, quoted ~$150 to repair occued with flex from above incident.

Currently at standard boost. With 12psi 170rwkw-185rwkw should be achieveable. Rb25's are widley regarded to handle 250rwkw on stock internals, all you need is a bigger turbo and ecu + injectors (around $3500-$4000).

Paint condition good. Does have some minor scratches that would come out with good polish.

Again, is completely engineered by AKZ Vehicle Engineering in Canberra. Certificate number JWW 1751 MLVV

pics. taken some months ago (may not include current items)

www.brabarus.com/180pics/a1.jpg

www.brabarus.com/180pics/a2.jpg

www.brabarus.com/180pics/a3.jpg

www.brabarus.com/180pics/a4.jpg

www.brabarus.com/180pics/a5.jpg

Looking for $16,500. Comes with 3months rego.

Feel free to contact me for more details.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...