Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

another way to deal with this ( GTR in RWD ) is buy the "Full Race" 4WD controller, it has manual and auto modes, and in manual at the turn of a knob, all the way one way is max 4WD and the other way is complete 2WD=0 transfer case pressure.. also replaces the old Attessa computer and old G-Sensor, with much faster computer and better G-sensor, sounds perfect for track and strip... I got one coming (-;

ps, doesn't matter if R32,R33 or R34, makes them exactly the same...

another way to deal with this ( GTR in RWD ) is buy the "Full Race" 4WD controller, it has manual and auto modes, and in manual at the turn of a knob, all the way one way is max 4WD and the other way is complete 2WD=0 transfer case pressure.. also replaces the old Attessa computer and old G-Sensor, with much faster computer and better G-sensor, sounds perfect for track and strip... I got one coming (-;

ps, doesn't matter if R32,R33 or R34, makes them exactly the same...

ive wated to grab on of these aswell. looks to be a good bang for buck ATTESA upgrade.

did you get the ETS- PRO one? im assuming thats there product name, and not the model of ATTESSA it is suited to? a little confussing

Q: Does ETS-PRO work on vehicles with Active Rear Differentials:

A: We have not tested compatibility with Active Rear Differentials at this time. Instead, we recommend using the ETS-Pro with a clutch pack type differential such as stock GTR 2 way (reshimmed to NISMO spec plate:disc:plate:disc is highly recommended and free). Most high quality aftermarket units with a smooth lock like Carbonetic, ATS, OS Giken (soft lock) or Nismo may also work well. The key for a 4wd car like this is a smooth locking diff that is not overy aggressive, but does not slip open either.

Also a little unsure on it working with the ABS as per below

Q: The OEM system interfaces to the ABS system, why don’t you have any interface to the ABS system?

A: The ABS sensors are used on the OEM system to provide a method to increase the engine braking force and also open the diff in emergency braking situations. The ETS-PRO system comes with a "braking mode" program which has an emergency braking routine built into the braking program, allowing the diff to go totally open - so the brakes at each wheel can act independently in relation to the ABS in an emergency. We have weighed the option allowing customers to cut and splice into the ABS system in order to integrate the controller into it, and decided that it was high risk with no benefit.

Let me know how yours goes once its installed, Dosnet look they any of them replace the attessa ECU though?

have you compared this full rave one, To say ruzic, or tarzans?

yeah the ETS-Pro..

I got rid of the A-LSD, great upgrade, and depending how you wire it up ( there are 2 options) it does completely replace the Attessa computer for 4WD control, except as pointed out above, not for ABS or A-LSD,. so I'm going to hard wire the ETS-Pro for the 4WD and leave the standard Attessa computer to do ABS.

Will report how it compares to the Ruzic I just took out, which was great for the track, and the new GPS one looks even better. But I like the sound of the Full Race one, whereas the Ruzic is map based the Full Race has map based and manual, in manual you have complete control, from max 4WD to complete RWD, could be handy for tyre warming at the drags, dynoing, drifting, etc

  • 5 months later...

Sorry for the old thread dig, is the attesa bleed wire removal + brake pedal pump method confirmed safe?

As per my service manual, and the fact that when I put it into rwd, I look on the torque transfer gauge and confirm no torque is being transferred.

Besides, The MANUAL says that you do this when towing the car with 2 wheels in the air.

Sorry for the old thread dig, is the attesa bleed wire removal + brake pedal pump method confirmed safe?

Yeah mate it's perfectly fine, I get my car tuned on a 2wd dyno and the above is all I do! I actually have it hooked up on a switch to make things easier!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I seem to be having some trouble getting it to RWD mode.

It's a hit or miss when I try to do it, sometimes it works and sometimes the 4WD light stays on.

I think it might be the turbo timer function on my alarm that's causing the issue...

I turn the key to "on" then I see the 4WD light turn off then I start pressing the break while starting the car and I keep pressing the break pedel until I see the 4WD light flashing.

This method only works for me sometimes, am I doing something wrong?

When i tried the RWD mode, my 4WD light was constantly flashing the whole time, there was no torque going to the front according to the factory gauge...and you could feel it. I presume its normal for it to constantly flash.

What i did was.

1. Disconnect the plug

2. Start the car

3. Press brake pedal till the 4WD light starts flashing

4. Drive

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...