Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys selling my skyline as i no longer can justify owning one with the two kids around.

Open to cash offers or swaps for something four door.

Details 1996 R33 Skyline Series 2

Engine & Performance

PWR FMIC

OS Giken super sng clutch

Full 3" exhaust X Force with a hi flow cat

Tomei adjustable ex cam gear

Spool rods

CP pistons

Tomei pon cam shafts IN, EX 256 Lift: IN,EX 8.5mm

ALL new ACL gasket kit

Apexi 1.2mm mls head gasket

ACL main bearing kit

ARP head stud kit

Walbro 550hp intank fuel pump

Nissan N1 water pump

Nissan N1 oil pump

Nismo low temp thermostat (Large)

Gates racing timing belt kit

Greddy Intake manifold

HyperTune 90mm throttle body

Sard fuel pressure regulator

850cc Sard fuel Injectors

HKS 2835 Pro S turbo kit

K & N pod filter

Splitfire coil pack

NGK Iridium spark plugs

Z32 AFM

New battery

Suspension & Handling

White line front & rear sway bars

Cusco front & rear struts

Hicas lock bar (Unit Removed)

19" BSA black rims tread all about 75-85%

extra rims 3 x 19" Buddy Club p1 racing rims and tyres (2 tyres 70-80% tread, 1 60%)

Extras

greddy turbo timer (extra- alarm has one)

Viper remote paging alarm system (inbuilt turbo timer, remote engine start)

Nismo 300km dash (29000km)

Apexi power fc with hand controller

Apexi AVCR

Apexi AFC neo

Defi boost gauge & control unit

Tinted windows

Ennon 7" DVD, CD, MP3, GPS double din unit

2 x Pioneer 6x9 4 way speakers

Bride low maxx bucket seat, plus still have original

Greddy\Trust front bar & a Veilside back bar

Probably extra standard parts lying around as well, the buyer can take the lot.

Still has the original flare from japan (but might keep that i really want to let it off)

The List probably isn't in order and i might have missed some things that i have bought or done because this rebuild has been a long process because of a big interstate move in between that held things up.

All of the items that are listed here are with the car but some of the items are not installed (Red) because i have to take the car through regency to get it registered in SA.

The body could use a touch up & the roof was vandalized (quoted 1200 to fix) mainly spent my money on the other stuff.

The car is ready to be inspected here in Adelaide.

Looking for 16,500 completed or 14,500 as is, or swap for a family car of similar value.

post-68092-0-14195500-1318669738_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...