Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Afternoon gents, some clarification on some tuning concepts would be greatly appreciated and NS is giving me nothing at this point, allow me to elaborate.

CA18DET Currently has

-Stock fuel system, injectors, pump etc (I realise I need to upgrade these to go further, see below).

- T25G, 13psi

- Basic supporting mods, oil cooler, fmic etc

- Used primarily for track duties

- SAFC II Adding fuel from boost transition point onwards, around 16-17%

- AEM Wideband installed

- Standard ECU (going of previous receipts it said "tuned" when the previous turbo was repaired, only thing I note is it's running 7 deg base timing instead of 10 - checked with timing light after noting CAS was clocked). Last dyno sheet was approx 164rwkw at around 12:1 afr.

Now I'm in the process of fitting a GT2560/S15 BB T28 which will obviously flow a lot more air at 14 or so psi than the T25G and will fit some GT-R injectors and possibly a bigger AFM as I expect the standard items to be approaching the limits.

Am I right in my reading that adding fuel in the SAFC retards timing and removing it advances timing? So at the moment my timing will be less than stock as the SAFC is telling the ECU that it's got higher load than it really does to get more fuel, in turn retarding timing? Plus it's got retarded base timing - putting it back to standard 10 deg seemed to make it knock (SAFC knock reading using factory sensor).

If that's the case, putting in larger injectors/fuel pump will require me to add less fuel to get the right AFRs so timing will be closer to "normal" or do I have it backwards? With timing close to factory, will that be my biggest risk of knock or will increased cylinder pressures from more boost be a more likely culprit?

I realise I can go Nistune etc and have full control over timing, I'm only interested in what will occur with the SAFC at this point, as an aside SAFC II has the agbility to transalte between RB25/Z32 etc AFM to CA ecu, manual shows the values required.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380613-tuning-queries/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...