Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i'm in the process of getting an r33 gtst in 3 weeks time but from all the forums that iv been reading these past week seems like almost everybody is agreeing that r33 gtst is quite slow and usually get beaten easily with evos, supras, ,wrx,dc2&dc5 and apparently even preludes so these is making me confused if im gna get it at all....some say depends on how much you put work and upgrades into it and it will reveal the guaranteed speed and power skylines are known for..... so these were the upgrades on these current r33 that im getting in 3 weeks time.

includes :

Engine : RB25DET

-Transmission : Automatic

-Turbo : High Mount T3/T4

-Intercooler : Apexi

-TurboSmart Boost Controller

-Bosch Fuel Pump

-Exhaust : Tanabe

-Body Kit : Full Veilside Body Kit

-Wheels : 18inch

Car made around 220kw on the Dyno last year

just wanted to know if these is enough or who do i beat with these power so il know when,who or not to step on the accelerator.....need your advice and opinion on these guys...thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380761-need-answers-guys/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Firstly I hope your not planning to race on public roads,

Secondly AUTO ewwwww why you would want an automatic skyline is beyond me

Thirdly 220rwkws is definitely enough to beat all the cars you've listed IF they are stock

And lastly even on stock form an R33 is not going to lose to a prelude

So if your planning on racing at the track on a drag strip why would buy an auto? Half the fun of drag racing is timing the gear changes?

Also you said you want to know when to put your foot down,

so if your at the drag strip and you are up against a car that can beat you, when the lights go green are you just gonna sit there cause the other car is faster than you?

cmon guys i may be new to skyline but i aint that stupid lol....the car obviously comes with auto already and i like these car so auto or manual doesnt really bother me cuz i can always convert it later on and when i say put my foot down is basically just an expression of who i can beat because all the cars that mentioned before are my mates cars and they definitely not stock....

and its got the report from dyno that it made 220kws last year so when i get it im gna get it tuned again....and yes it has a high mount turbo and whats wrong with veilside bodykit? dont get it.....?

Seriously dude look for a manual there would be heaps out there,

Otherwise your basically buying it for looks

And I can't see any hondas unless they have

"about a hundred grand under the bonnet" lol

beating and r33 with a front mount intercooler full exhaust and a bit more boost

LMAO....do need it for looks to :]....and on regards to honda prelude my mate doesnt own it iv read it on one of the forums yesterday an r33 owner admitting he was wrong for underestimating the prelude cuz apparently it raped him.....and these iwhat the car i was thinking of getting what do u think? :]

He must have forgotten what the accelerator was

Cause my mechanic was tuning a late model prelude that has had easily over $40k spent on it (what a waste)

And with a turbo and aftermarket ecu it still only does 180kws at the front wheels,

And regards to looks I would take a stock looking r33 that was manual over a NICE looking auto one any day of the year

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...