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S13 Rolling Shell, S13 Clear Taillights/indicators, S13 X Force Exhaust, Greddy Pro Spec Ii, S13 Power Fc, Gfb Bov, Kaixen H1 Hid, Spacers, Injectors


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Hey Guy,

Cleaning out my garage: Mainly S13 parts however got a few bits and pieces that are generic

S13 front strut brace - $50

S13 Standard dump pipe - $40

S13 front Reo, been cut for fmic - $50

S13/14/15 rear braided brake lines, brand new- $50

S13 crystal front bar indicators, used but in great condition, comes with globes and plugs - $60

S13 clear tailights in mint condition - $140

S13 Power FC, to suit blacktop S13/180sx was tuned for z32, T28 and 55cc injectors, comes with handcontroller - $700

S15 hot pipe with blitz bov - $150

S15 OEM Injectors taken out of my Nissan AUS Spec S Manual S15 - $170

GFB stealth bov - $200

Greddy pro spec II - $250

Blitz FATT Turbo Timer - $50

S13 x force turbo back 3" exhaust with dump, cat, resonator and cannon muffler - $350

Kaixen HID KIT - H1 Globes, 6000K, no box, used for 6 months then sold the car - $100

52mm Vacuum gauge, used comes with box and all, lights up 7 colours or something

60mm Oil Pressure gauge, comes with hood, wiring and instructions

52mm Air Fuel gauge, used comes with wiring and all

All threes gauges for $70

15mm 4x114.3 spacers (pair), comes with bolts and all - $90

25mm 4x114.3 spacers (pair), comes with bolts and all - $90

SR20DET T28 braided turbo and water lines - $120

SR20DET T28 BB braided turbo and water lines - $120

Pick up from Glen Waverley

Cheers Phil

0433950285

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  • Latest Posts

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    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
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