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I’ve got the following parts for sale from my track S13 that i’m stripping

740cc nismo injectors, with rail $500

Garrett GT2871RS - 48T with 0.64 rear. Made ~240rwkw $700

HKS Oil Cooler kit, with remote oil filter attachment and thermostat $550

HKS Cams. Step 1 264in 264ex with rocker stoppers. $450

Nistune computer, tuned for 740cc injectors, z32 afm, 2871, fmic, exhaust, step1 cams $500

Lightweight alloy harmonic balancer and full pulley kit $200 for the lot

Driveline

SR20DET gearbox $550 (i have a few of these spare)

Mechanical Diff - 1 way in 4.1 housing. Excellent condition and quiet(ish) $650

S13 SR20DET manual tailshaft $120

5 stud conversion. Front includes S15 Lower control arms, and uprights, rear is the hubs and spindles. Everything needed to make your S13 5 stud $550

R32 GTR front brakes with aftermarket disks (396mmx32mm) $380

Suspension

Tein Flex Coilovers with EDFC controller. Immaculate condition with minimal kms $1200

Whiteline adjustable swarbars. Front and Rear $200 each

Kazama front castor rods $200

Kazama Rear Upper Arms $250

Electronics

Blitz dual SBC boost controller. Complete and good condition. $300

Greddy whiteface 60mm electronic guages. Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp. Complete with all sensors. These have peak hold and warning. $450 for the set.

All parts still on car. Pics of some stuff to come on weekend

Few more things to add.

Js Twin square headlights, with g-corp clear covers $500

50mm wideguards. Fit really well. $275

FRP bonnet. This is 14kg lighter than standard (it is 4kg). It is NOT VENTED. It is recommended for TRACK USE ONLY as it needs to be pinned at all 4 corners $400

Silvia_05-10-2008.jpg

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  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
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