Jump to content
SAU Community

Starting your R33 when warm

Robo

By Robo,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Robo Community Regular

Robo

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Call me fussy but when I start my car (when engine is cold) it cranks over staright away (like in less than a second).

When the engine is at normal temp and I turn it off an then back on it takes like 3 seconds to crank it over..

Any one else have this happen to them? Can it be fixed to start like is was cold?

Thanks in advance.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38340-starting-your-r33-when-warm/
Share on other sites
benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

Mine takes about 3 jabs of the throttle to get it kicked over regardless of hot/cold however that could having something to do with my larger fuel pump and also a battery which was "revived" not long ago when it probably should have been replaced :D

OriGKryZ Apprentice

OriGKryZ

Posted
Posted

Robo your problem is completely normal mait and i wouldn't worry about it.

The reason behind it is because on a cold start there's a lot less lubrication then on a warm start. I've been driving a Ford XF on carbies and on a cold start its takes about 20 seconds to get the bitch to kick.. Yet on a warm start its instant. So dont stress.

  • 1 month later...
serial_thrilla Apprentice

serial_thrilla

Posted
Posted

Mines a 97 GTS25T and I have a similar thing, although 3 seconds is really a bit of an exaggeration. When I start the car in my garage first thing it fires up instantly, but if I've been driving around for a while yeah it takes about 1 - 1.5 seconds to actually ignite. I notice this even more so when ive been doing several short trips consecutively i.e. to the bank --> to the servo --> to the shops. I have no idea why this happens but I don't think its a problem. I'm probably going to get a bigger battery though!

heartbrkr Community Regular

heartbrkr

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I have same problem with my 97 Gtst. Starts fine when cold, but has a problem after short trips etc. down to shop or servo. usually takes 2 or 3 goes before it starts.

I have mentioned it to my mechanic, and need to look into it. I just replaced the Fuel Filter as the car had started to stall (Auto). Was hoping it would fix both problems, but the warm start issue remains.

hb/

XplodeSkyline Contributor

XplodeSkyline

Posted
Posted

i got a 94gtst and mine does the same thing, it's to do with the idle, your idles at what 650-700, and on cold at 1500 or something like that, because it's so low it takes time for the system to get goin, when mine is warm and doin short trips after the 4-5 stop mine is a real pain in the ass to start, so i general leave it running. If you adjust your idle right as high as it will go, it doesn't do it.

P.s my mate s13 silvia does the same thing, and that does take 3 seconds to start

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
Mine takes about 3 jabs of the throttle to get it kicked over regardless of hot/cold however that could having something to do with my larger fuel pump and also a battery which was "revived" not long ago when it probably should have been replaced :)

U have to actually touch the go pedal to make it start??

I got a 044 bosch pump and if u turn the key to 2 and let it prime for a few seconds then it start easily without having to touch the go pedal hot or cold.

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted
U have to actually touch the go pedal to make it start??

I got a 044 bosch pump and if u turn the key to 2 and let it prime for a few seconds then it start easily without having to touch the go pedal hot or cold.

I don't "have" to touch the throttle. I turn the ignition on until the fuel pump cuts out (~5sec) and then as I kick it over I press the throttle twice. I find if I just turn the key it takes an extra few seconds to kick over thats all.

I've only had to do this since I removed the standard r33 GTS-t pump and replaced it with a Bosch 040.

This saturday i'm getting that "idle" issue fixed (cutting the ground wire from the ECU and grounding it to the chassis somewhere). So I guess this means that the fuel pump will be working @ 100% all the time, not sure what impact that will have on anything else.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...