Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone who needs new tyres should check out ferntree-gully-motor on ebay.

I just bought 4 Bridgestone RE050A tyres from them. Size 245 x 40 x 19.

Jason fitted them for me while I waited.

They are advertising on ebay, but they are the Holden dealer in Ferntree Gully.

The local Bridgestone tyre depot told me the tyres were about $600 each so to get them fitted at close to half that price was a real win.

Best thing though, the handling of the car has improved 100% over the cheap indoneasian tyres that were fitted to it when i got it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384506-new-tyres-for-the-v/
Share on other sites

Haha...Glad you finally changed those cheap indonesian tyres!

Good price on the RE0050As as well! Those were not going for less than $500 so I opted for the Hankook S1 evos instead.

Anyone who needs new tyres should check out ferntree-gully-motor on ebay.

I just bought 4 Bridgestone RE050A tyres from them. Size 245 x 40 x 19.

Jason fitted them for me while I waited.

They are advertising on ebay, but they are the Holden dealer in Ferntree Gully.

The local Bridgestone tyre depot told me the tyres were about $600 each so to get them fitted at close to half that price was a real win.

Best thing though, the handling of the car has improved 100% over the cheap indoneasian tyres that were fitted to it when i got it.

After a bunch of trouble with my V35 sedan:

* When bought, mismatched tyres all round, various states of wear

* Offset all wrong, alignment stuffed: tramlined like a little so-and-so, steered like a barge

I had the staggered Arthur Exchange 18" rims machined (to correct the offset), all new rubber, full balance, alignment and suspension/steering setup done.

Lasted 8 months before I somehow suddenly got a bent rear passenger rim, and on inspection, 3 of the 4 tyres were delaminating.

Time for this setup to go. I'm very out-of-pocket at this stage.

* Bought some used 18" 350Z rims, with 50% RE040 all round.

* Had them balanced and fitted

"Floaty" driving feel, looked like the tyres were "stretched" on the rim (225/45R18)....lasted 4 months before the rubber was worn right down.

Oops, now I need rego. And 4 new tyres. Right now.

* Settled on Nexen N8000 (yes, yes, they're no P-ZEROs) for $135 each shipped (235/40R18).

* Had them fitted by the local guys in my suburb, balanced, and a 4-way "supardupar with laser beams OMG!" alignment done

Done 500km so far, and they're quiet, steer nicely, and I hope my tyre saga is over. Or else I think I'm being divorced! :-(

Anyone who needs new tyres should check out ferntree-gully-motor on ebay.

I just bought 4 Bridgestone RE050A tyres from them. Size 245 x 40 x 19.

Jason fitted them for me while I waited.

They are advertising on ebay, but they are the Holden dealer in Ferntree Gully.

The local Bridgestone tyre depot told me the tyres were about $600 each so to get them fitted at close to half that price was a real win.

Best thing though, the handling of the car has improved 100% over the cheap indoneasian tyres that were fitted to it when i got it.

At those prices did you check if they are grey/parallel imports? I purchased some Continentals from an Ebay tire store in Syd recently...pretty much half the usual RRP and later found out they were not DOT approved.

I Just recently started working at bridgestone and yea they are expensive as hell but me and my boss are both running achillies tyres and they are truely awesome for the money they cost, and mine are 20s

At those prices did you check if they are grey/parallel imports? I purchased some Continentals from an Ebay tire store in Syd recently...pretty much half the usual RRP and later found out they were not DOT approved.

They don't necessarily need to be DOT approved. If they're compliant with:

e(3) - european

DOT - american

JIS - Japan.

And, even more confusingly, the current ADRs for tyres don't even require that the approval rating's mark be present anymore:

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67224560-ADR-Approved-Tyres.-What-DOT-marking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...