Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ppl gona sell my car so puttin everything bak to stock

hypergear atr43ss g1 450hp bolt on for rb20/25 great turbo done 2000ks hvnt had my car tuned so cant tell u power figures, comes with modifyed intake to suit r32 gtst, can use standard dump pipe and oil/ water lines

1200

sard 550cc injectors stright drop in for rb20s jus had them cleaned and flow tested

400

rb26 cams off a r32gtr, steight drop in for rb20s giv u more lift and slight duration

150

rb26 plenum with itb's was gona modify to suit rb20 lower intake but havnt had time, comes with rb20 lower intake manifold

180

z32 afm with plug working conidtion

200

rb26 gtr rods all stright good for rb25 ect

150

jjr blue airbox for r32

150

located in south east melb

call or sms me 0432 506 443

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384658-few-rb20det-performance-parts/
Share on other sites

update more parts

gizzmo shift light dual stage

$130

dished drift steering wheel and boss kit to suit hcr32 with hicas

$120

hks turbo timer with harness to suit r32

$80

saber water/oil temp/oil pressure 60mm gauges comes with all wiring and sensors but missing water temp sensor i lost it somewhere all working good look nice at night comes with cups 2 are alittle bit big tho....

$250

post-68886-0-10175700-1322984754_thumb.jpg

post-68886-0-62306500-1322984886_thumb.jpg

few more parts added and more photos

set of front struts with spring to suit skyine r32,

gab sport super r no sure of springs but they are pretty stiff springs

no leaks or knocks

220

photos of airbox, z32 afm, gauges, and shocks

also got a huffy accra moutain bike for sale

just taking up room in my shed

200

post-68886-0-89179400-1323332629_thumb.jpg

post-68886-0-81077000-1323332686_thumb.jpg

post-68886-0-03067000-1323332803_thumb.jpg

post-68886-0-39661800-1323332847_thumb.jpg

post-68886-0-13331700-1323332980_thumb.jpg

post-68886-0-17835600-1323333033_thumb.jpg

post-68886-0-01241100-1323333072_thumb.jpg

post-68886-0-91345100-1323333111_thumb.jpg

post-68886-0-97443600-1323333154_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...