Jump to content
SAU Community

Bad Compression, Oily Motor, Rings ?

mikeyR33-T

By mikeyR33-T,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, for those of you who do not know me/my car; its 93 r33 rb25det, auto, coupe 180,000+ kms, had to change turbo recently and rocker cover gaskets etc.. got the car cheaper but now i see why, even from day 1 when i got it dynoed and tested the dyno was down at least 10-15kw off normal, I have a 3inch turbo bk xhaust and hi flow cat, FMIC, and K&N filter, stock turbo/ecu etc all stock internals, the car always ran okay except starting up in morning it would idle rough as for a min till it came good, and driving it would at times hesitate OR have flat spots midrange. always drove but wasnt 100% power wise and idling and recently got worse, now the induction noise is very loud then it used to be, the car still idles rough in the mornings but most recently BELOW is the issue:

MY car has been down on compression on 2 of 6 cyl, but only be 10-15 psi, but since then i have upped the boost and given it a HARD time here and there, and NOW im getting oil spat all ova the engine bay, ive been told its compression build up shooting the dipstick out and oil out onto the engine bay beside the dipstick? theres no other way for oil to get out on the side of the motor, so myself and mechanic have decided compression has gone worse in the past months and to change the rings/gaskets for rebuild?? is that the ideal solution, and will it make the engine run like new again??

I thought the idling and flat spots issues may be timing/ AFR but I think now its to do with compression/air flow and my mechanic friend and I have decided to do the RINGS in my rb25det, change all the rings and gaskets as to do a rebuild to bring the engine/car back to life??

WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST? IS THIS A GOOD IDEA? (there would be more details in this but i only know so much)

thanx - this is serious, I do not want to drive my engine to the ground if its slowly dying?

cheers mikeyy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384944-bad-compression-oily-motor-rings/
Share on other sites
mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

do a compression test, post results

did 3-4months ago, like this; 150,150,150,145,140,135 from mem - but that was august, the main reason to choosing to do rings is because the motor isnt running its best and that dipstick has blown out and oil out the side of the motor and engine bay.. compression seems down

Damo_R34 Grand Master

Damo_R34

Posted
Posted

did 3-4months ago, like this; 150,150,150,145,140,135 from mem - but that was august, the main reason to choosing to do rings is because the motor isnt running its best and that dipstick has blown out and oil out the side of the motor and engine bay.. compression seems down

If compression was down you probably shouldnt have wound up the boost and hammered it, but do a current compression test.

mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If compression was down you probably shouldnt have wound up the boost and hammered it, but do a current compression test.

yeah probably not hey, but at the time i didnt know or think it was that bad...everyone ive spoke to has said new rings/gaskets will make the engine run like NEW! which i believe is worth it either way

RBJETT Rising Star

RBJETT

Posted
Posted

the only thing that id have been weary of is 1 cylinder being 15psi off when the rest are really within 5-10psi. wouldnt be enough to cause what your saying tho but i still wouldnt have wrung its neck

  • 1 month later...
mikeyR33-T Collaborator

mikeyR33-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the only thing that id have been weary of is 1 cylinder being 15psi off when the rest are really within 5-10psi. wouldnt be enough to cause what your saying tho but i still wouldnt have wrung its neck

Hi, just updating... I got the new rings/conrod bearings/3pistons were fu%d got all that replaced and now realised its running R&R which was most likely the whole time since I changed actuators :P Im learning as I go along...

I have since got Z32 ecu and Nistune installed, plan on getting a tune done asap to get the best I can out of this car and of course fix the bugs it has, Martin from WILLALL has explained to me, his tune will fix most of my issues :D cant wait, car might actually run to its full potential soon enough :D

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...