Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys and girls, just decided i might have to spend cash on another car soon, and was wondering if anyone is interested in yet another R33 GTST?

it is a series2 with all the extra M spec body bits, BC V1 coilovers, Freshly powdercoated R33 GTR wheels with polished lip.

ive owned the car for about 3 and a bit year now, done almost 60000 since. and it hasnt missed a beat, really reliable standard car, no boost, exhaust, POD etc. just stock and clean. the usual 5k services.

it now stands at 127000 on the clock, ive personally done the 100k service at 100k on the clock. with a gates timing belt, all new water pump. cam and crank seals, tensioners etc, and iridium plugs. and recently all new Resma brake pads all round ( the ones i pulled out were original Sumitomo Nissan items)

Along the way i've cleaned out the AAC valve, and replaced the O2 sensor for peace of mind and fuel economy. all gearbox and diff oils (penrite synthetics), brake fluids etc were also done as soon as i bought it.

Interior has a consult cable wired up under the dash with a USB plug in the glovebox for easy fault assessment....not that Ive ever needed it :thumbsup:. and brand new leather gater and handbrake boots in black leather with red stitching to match the wheel. interior is in VG condition, and comes with a simple MP3 stereo with AUX input.

I do love my car. but if i can get the right amount for it i will spend it wisely on another :whistling: looking at $13500 RWC and regoed in QLD, call me crazy, but i know how hard it is to find a nice clean 33...it took me ages to find this one....and will probably kick myself for letting it go.

i Have all the original parts still and can/will go with car.

post-62717-0-81245300-1327327209_thumb.jpg

post-62717-0-55576700-1327327570_thumb.jpg

post-62717-0-32806700-1327327913_thumb.jpg

post-62717-0-19788300-1327328060_thumb.jpg

post-62717-0-84913300-1327328161_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389194-r33-series2-eoi-sale/
Share on other sites

Good luck mate.

It is the perfect buy in that it handles well, is well maintained, looks good and hasn't been touched in terms of power up.

Hope you get what you want for it but you know what it's like to sell a skyline these days.

Edited by GTST

some interest showing. which is surprising...Man there are alot of 33 S2 for sale in here. yet i dont see many on the road :ermm:.

not interested in swaps (unless you wana give me a GTR :nyaanyaa:) as the money will be directed into other projects.

another few pics.

and the original door rattle i had when i bought it...which turned out to be this little spray bottle. i think its breath freshener.....but smells more like a spectacles cleaner :thumbsup:

post-62717-0-60635700-1328525052_thumb.jpg

post-62717-0-57917400-1328525080_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...