Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I purchased my 1998 R34 GTT about 7 months ago, and all went perfectly for about 6 months. Recently I have run in to a few problems which I really need some help or recommendations on as to what might be the cause and what to do about it.

The car has a aftermarket alarm turbo timer immobiliser(not sure if it is all one unit or seperate) and a power fc which i think may be relevant to the problem, but also has aftermarket pod filter, front mount intercooler, and a few other bits and peices.

Problem 1:

At the end of a trip, when I turn the key to the off position, 90% of the time the engine will either turn off temporarily then try kick start(crank) itself, and when successful runs down the turbo timer and then turns everything off properly, or it will turn off (sometimes sound like its trying to start) but doesn't kick start/turn back on, but my boost controller and dash indiciation lights remain lit, indicating that the car still has power running through it and the car isn't actually off (I then have to turn the car back on by turning the key to the start position, then I can pull the key out with no problems everytime and it will run down the timer and shut everything off properly).

10% of the time it will actually stay running when the key is removed and run down the turbo timer then turn off with no problems.

This problem has gradually become worse, it use to be 10% failure rate, now its only 10% success rate of turning off properly.

I have also experienced funny business with the immobiliser where i can start the car and have it running (can't be done without the immobiliser disabled) then all of a sudden the car will sometimes beep or not beep and I put the handbreak down the drive and the engine cuts off.

Problem 2:

When driving with no boost, the revs can go as high as they want in any gear with no problems, when turning the boost on, in 1st-3rd gear, when excellerating and the boost preasure builds up especially getting towards the higher RPM, a squeel sound almost like some of the old kettles when boiling water or asif air is beeing squeezed through a small gap occurs.

Could this be the BOV, or piping, or any other suggestions?

Thank you so much for any advice in advanced.

Problem 1: Piss off the turbo timer thingo. You don;t need a turbo timer. If you can't wait 30 seconds to turn it off after you pull up, then you need a patience transplant. Timers are illegal* anyway, so who needs something unnecessary on their car that can trigger a defect when you could avoid it?

* It is illegal to leave an unattended car running. Turbo timers breach this rule.

Problem 2: You either have a boost leak (split hose, leaky clamp, broken weld, etc) or you have an exhaust leak (stuffed manifold, turbo or dump gasket, or possibly loose/lost nuts bolts on same or broken exhaust stud.) Find and fix.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...