Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Morning fella's

Car

1992 model 180sx RPS13

Non sunroof

Champagne in color (resprayed 2010) black roof

17 inch rays gramlights

Manual 5speed

150XXX ks (rebuilt)

Rego till march 2012

RWC negotiable

Bottom end- Biult by Precision engines in march 2010

Spool imports engine package. Including

CP forged pistons

Spool forged H beam Rods

Cometic MLS head gasket

APR head studs

ACL race series main bearings

ACL race series big end bearings

Alloy pulley kit

Head

HKS 264 cams

Ported head

Split fire coilpacks

Greddy intake manifold, Plenum (Freddy)

70mm alloy throttle body

Fueling

bosch 040 intank

550cc injectors (spare 850cc sards)

rising rate fuel pressure regulator (with gauge)

braided fuel lines

Z32 fuel filter

Usual mods

3" turbo back exhaust

Hi-flow cat

volume adjustable Varex muffler

Greddy front mount intercooler

Apexi air filter in custom air box

Cooling pro Silicon intake pipe

M-spec oil catch can (not a drop in it, no blow by)

Alloy 52mm radiator, r33 skyline viscous fan

Gktech 3mm alloy sump bash plate

GKtech over flow bottle

Gktech bell mouth dump pipe

Engine torque damper

Tomei coil pack cover

Areial spoiler and rear wiper revomved and shaved.

Electronics

Apexi power FC

Microtech Lt10's

Apexi AVC-r boost controller

Z32 air flow meter

JDM Option water and oil temp gauges (never ever overheats)

Autometer oil pressure + boost gauges

Alpine USB single din MP3 player

FET turbo timer

Suspension + handling

Tein HA coilovers. height + damper and camber adjustable

Cusco rear adjustable camber arms (could be copys)

Cusco front adjustable caster rods (could be copys)

30mm sway bars

Alloy subframe bushes

GKTech rear strut bar

N-power front strut bar

Driveline

Excedy cusion button clutch

Nismo short shifter

Kaaz 2way dif

Rays Gramlight 57s

Z32 brake upgrade

Slotted and cross drilled front rotors

will maybe Swap for more suitable car of value around 10k. But quick cash sale $7500 no F**KN around. Cheap as chips! Found a car i want to get this weekend, so if its not sold by then price will go up to $10,000

And if it dosn't sell ill keep it =)

After R34 GTT or R33 GTs-t (late model) or R32 GTR, Or s15, Cash adjustment your way is fine for the right car'

0434496747

post-52856-0-40328500-1329767313_thumb.jpg

post-52856-0-59161900-1329767333_thumb.jpg

post-52856-0-75328000-1329767400_thumb.jpg

post-52856-0-83335600-1329767425_thumb.jpg

post-52856-0-64037300-1329767486_thumb.jpg

Edited by jonesl
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...