Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI

I have a gtr here without the tank beneath the plenum, the two hoses feeding the tank originally are going to the brake and clutch boosters.

The FPR is set up as normal

The PCV valve is set up as normal

I currently have the BOV's running off a fitting between the vacum tube and the PCV, as i had seen some run their ecu's from here on map sensors and thought it would be ok.

Everything seems fine but i was just wondering if anyone could confirm its ok or suggest something better. I'm worried with PCV open it would have less pressure than needed for the bov's, there is a bit of choo choo train noise at low throttle but that was the same with these turbos on the last motor.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394493-rb26-bov-line-no-aac-vacum-tank-etc/
Share on other sites

Yeah they are shuffling, they were doing the same thing when i had them on the 25.

I was trying to find out if there is a better place to feed the bov's from. Motor has only done a few hundred k's so i havent really worked it yet and im just chasing some driveability issues, although it is getting better everytime i hop in.

This is the only thing i can think of as being an issue. Still boosts fine and everything but i haven't really checked for boost leaks etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's almost certainly a reluctor generating an "AC" waveform. No, ECUs don't generally read those - they're usually set up for PWM square wave 0-5v stuff.
    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
×
×
  • Create New...