Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, first postwacko.gif

I'm going to be getting a first car this year and I'd really love to get a skyline.

Now wait, before you jump up and yak on and on about how teenagers shouldn't drive powerful cars and blah blah blah. I'm not some brain-dead drop-kick who likes to tear down the free way at 200km/h at 1am with 6 drunk mates in the back.

I've been keeping an eye on gumtree/carsales and all I ever seem to see are either expensive R33s (carsales) or crap condition thrashed R33s (gumtree). So I figured I'd have a good read up on importing my own car from Japan. Easier said then done...

It is possible to import R34s through the SEVS but is it just easier to get a broker to do it for me? it seems that way at the moment. But I don't want to be spending 10k on an R34 that cost me 2k in Japan...

I'd really appreciate it if you guys could help me out and basically explain the steps of importing a car to me (in layman's terms if you could) because it looks like I'd end up having to call 5 different Govt. depts. for permits and customs. Is it all too much hassle for the couple of $$$ saved after you get murdered by taxes?

Surely some people on here have imported their car recently and could share their experience rolleyes.gif

Thanks alot guys

This is one of the R34s I found which I really like: R34 GTT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396986-import-or-local/
Share on other sites

Hey bud, welcome, theres always a big discussion on whether to import or go local and theres no real 'right' way to go, you might want to post in the import section or pm iron chef if you are leaning that way, he can elaborate more on the process. Just for future reference use the search first and see what you get, you might be suprised you're not the first person to be conflicted on the subject :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396986-import-or-local/#findComment-6303984
Share on other sites

My personal way of looking at local vs import is simply if you can't find what you want local then go the import route. The only reason for this is waiting period, with local you have your car straight away but when importing it can be a few months. It doesn't matter how you get there in the end as long as you end up with the car you want in the condition you want.

As mentioned hit up Iron Chef as he has been importing for awhile now but it would always be easier to go broker over doing it yourself. Also you mentioned something like paying 10k for a car that cost 2k trust me the 8k difference wouldn't be a broker fee, Most places has a set broker fee that you pay and are told of from the start.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396986-import-or-local/#findComment-6304036
Share on other sites

A 2K car will cost you 10K because of import duties, tax, shipping, GST and compliance, not just broker fee's.

They are usually the cheapest part of the process.

Add in the piece of mind that someone in japan with your best interests at heart actually looking at the car you are interested in, and the fact that they can usually get you a "deal" on compliance, and IMO you would have rocks in your head to try and do it without one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396986-import-or-local/#findComment-6304806
Share on other sites

A 2K car will cost you 10K because of import duties, tax, shipping, GST and compliance, not just broker fee's.

They are usually the cheapest part of the process.

Add in the piece of mind that someone in japan with your best interests at heart actually looking at the car you are interested in, and the fact that they can usually get you a "deal" on compliance, and IMO you would have rocks in your head to try and do it without one.

^^^this, the car itself costs SFA, the govt has their hand in your pocket the rest of the time, go thru a reputable importer who will find you a good car in japan with low ks and (more importantly) a warranty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396986-import-or-local/#findComment-6305083
Share on other sites

Teenager, first time car....are you allowed to drive a Turbo pinch.gif ?. Anyway their are plenty of R34 examples to go though that are local. For some people its takes months, took me 2 days going through dealers down at parramatta road walking from one car i didnt like to the next. i walked past the car yard selling my future R34 because it was full of Toyota yaris, Corrolla's and Mazda 3,4,5,6 thinking their was no way the car i wanted was in there......Luckily my dad agreed to come and he decided he wanted to check out some mazda's 3 because he likes them while i chased up some dodgy looking supra at the next dealership.My dad walks over with a smug look not to long after the cleanest R34 was sitting all the way at the back of the dealership he was checking out. So dont think Japan is your only option for these cars.

Edited by starwarz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396986-import-or-local/#findComment-6305137
Share on other sites

jeez, lucky. I'm In WA, there's no laws for L/P platers here for turbos and power to weight ratios like over east. All the car yeards i perth are full of 20 year old camrys and daewoos... And I'm pretty sure if my dad found a good r34 he'd hide it :D

He's more of a wrx person. I've been having a bit better of a look around and I did find some decent R33s. Definitely no R34s though :( (unless i want to spend 15k)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396986-import-or-local/#findComment-6309735
Share on other sites

Broker all the way... They only make around 1000 Bux a car anyway, so a 10k car could be had 9k but you'd hafta do all the work travel and might end up disjointed if u import a lemon. I know my broker only imports good quality cars with log books etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396986-import-or-local/#findComment-6309774
Share on other sites

I was considering this some time ago and decided to use a broker. The about of work they do for the price is well worth it in my opinion, he must have checked out 10 cars before we found one that was just what I was after and as Stinky Rooster said he will probably be able to assist you with compliancing back in Aus so you get to keep any goodies that come with the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396986-import-or-local/#findComment-6309796
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is for an RB20DET. Sorry for not including that. 
    • Welp, this is where my compression lands after my rebuild. Thoughts? I have ~6 hours on the motor. 
    • Well, after the full circus this week (new gearbag, 14 psi actuator on, injectors and AFM upgraded, and.....turbo repair) the diagnosis on the wastegate is in. It was broken. It was broken in a really strange way. The weld that holds the lever arm onto the wastegate flapper shaft broke. Broke completely, but broke in such a way that it could go back together in the "correct" position, or it could rearrange itself somewhere else along the fracture plane and sit with the flapper not parallel to the lever. So, who knows how and when exactly what happened? No-one will ever know. Was it broken like this the first time it spat the circlip and wedged itself deep into the dump? Or was it only broken when I tried to pry it back into place? (I didn't try that hard, but who knows?). Or did it break first? Or did it break between the first and second event of wierdness? Meh. It doesn't matter now. It is welded back together. And it is now held closed by a 14 psi actuator, so...the car has been tuned with the supporting mods (and the order of operations there is that the supporting mods and dyno needed to be able to be done first before adding boost, because it was pinging on <<14 psi with the new turbo with only a 6 psi actuator). And then tuned up a bit, and with the boost controller turned off throughout that process. So it was only running WG pressure and so only hit about 15-16 psi. The turbo is still ever so slightly lazier than might be preferred - like it is still a bit on the big side for the engine. I haven't tested it on the road properly in any way - just driven it around in traffic for a half hour or so. But it is like chalk and cheese compared to what it was. Between dyno numbers and driving feedback: It makes 100 kW at 3k rpm, which is OK, could be better. That's stock 2JZ territory, or RB20 with G series 550. It actually starts building boost from 2k, which is certainly better than it did recently (with all the WG flapper bullshit). Although it's hard to remember what it was like prior to all that - it certainly seems much, much better. And that makes sense, given the WG was probably starting to blow open at anything above about 3 psi anyway (with the 6 psi actuator). It doesn't really get to "full boost" (say 16 psi) until >>4k rpm. I am hopeful that this is a feature of the lack of boost controller keeping boost pressure off the actuator, because it was turned off for the dyno and off for the drives afterward. There's more to be found here, I'm sure. It made 230 rwkW at not a lot more than 6k and held it to over 7k, so there seems to be plenty of potential to get it up to 250-260rwkW with 18 psi or so, which would be a decent effort, considering the stock sized turbo inlet pipework and AFM, and the return flow cooler. According to Tao, those things should definitely put a bit of a limit on it by that sort of number. I must stress that I have not opened the throttle 100% on the road yet - well, at least not 100% and allowed it to wind all the way up. It'll have to wait until some reasonable opportunity. I'm quite looking forward to that - it feels massively better than it has in a loooong time. It's back to its old self, plus about 20% extra powers over the best it ever did before. I'm going to get the boost controller set up to maximise spool and settle at no more than ~17 psi (for now) and then go back on the dyno to see what we can squeeze out of it. There is other interesting news too. I put together a replacement tube to fit the R35 AFM in the stock location. This is the first time the tuner has worked with one, because anyone else he has tuned for has gone from Z32 territory to aftermarket ECU. No-one has ever wanted to stay Nistuned and do what I've done. Anyway, his feedback is that the R35 AFM is super super super responsive. Tiny little changes in throttle position or load turn up immediately as a cell change on the maps. Way, way more responsive than any of the old skool AFMs. Makes it quite diffifult to tune as you have to stay right on top of that so you don't wander off the cell you wanted to tune. But it certainly seems to help with real world throttle response. That's hard to separate from all the other things that changed, but the "pedal feel" is certainly crisp.
    • I'm a bit confused by this post, so I'll address the bit I understand lol.  Use an air compressor and blow away the guide coat sanding residue. All the better if you have a moisture trap for your compressor. You'd want to do this a few times as you sand the area, you wouldn't for example sand the entire area till you think its perfect and then 'confirm' that is it by blowing away the guide coat residue.  Sand the area, blow away the guide coat residue, inspect the panel, back to sanding... rinse and repeat. 
×
×
  • Create New...