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do your research, Stack dash's are not "plug and play" there is wiring involved, yes it does come with sensors.

email me please [email protected]

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

New parts

Mazda Air temp sensor (for PowerFC D-Jetro) (brand new) $120

S14a HKB boss kit with airbag light cancel resistor plug (brand new) $180

S14 'Edge' Side skirts, unpainted white gelcoat (brand new) $250

S14.5 Origin +25mm conversion fenders (brand new) $450

S14 Origin +50mm rear fenders (brand new) $450

S14 light weight fibreglass doors (brand new) $900

S14 Full Lexan window kit (rear window with NACA vents, rear quarters, driver and passenger door windows with slider window kits) (brand new) $1,050

used parts

Greddy engine oil cap $40

S14/S15 Nismo springs and struts (lower than factory, very comfortable on street) $550

S15 factory rear boot spoler with led's, pewter colour $120

S15 JDM factory steering wheel with airbag $230

S15 Hybrid aluminium radiator $250

S15 Stage21 aero front bar (painted blue) $300

S15 boot lid and ducktail spoiler (not separating, duck tail is sikaflex'd and bolted on to boot lid) $300

S13/180sx TRUST 19 row oil cooler kit, thick quality trust core, for S13/180sx with filter relocator $700

HKS Super Sequential SQV BOV, genuine HKS, mounted on evo 8/9 hot pipe $300

ATP 'Frank' turbo, with stainless steel manifold, will fit s14/15 SR20det, good for around 240-250rwkw with stock cams. Braided lines included. $1100ono

C-west genuine carbon fibre GT-wing, mounted on S15 boot lid, wrapped in matte black vinyl $1,100

R34 GTR Cusco Type-40 aluminium strut tower brace $240

R34 GTR C-west N1 front bar (genuine), carbon fibre (painted black), will need respray/minor repairs $750

R34 GTR C-west carbon fibre cannards for N1 bar $350

R34 GTR/GTT Nismo GT LED tail lights $1,200

R34 GTR Alcon 6-pot front 365mm brake kit, rear 330mm brake kit. Ferodo DS3000 pads all round $6800

4x Advan AD08 265/35/18 tyres 99% tread (almost new, less than 300km) travelled $1300

RAYS Nismo LMGT4's white 17 x 9 +22 all round, no tyres, concave spokes, clears GTR brembo and Alcon brakes to 335mm rotor $2,200 firm

RAYS LE37's Top Secret Limited Edition Gold 18 x 10.5 +15 all round (rare, don't really want to sell these) $4000

SSR Type-C 17 x 9.5 +15 PAIR ONLY, white, average condition for age, no buckles $1100

** can post wheels interstate if needed at buyers cost **

Hi mate,

Im after the hks ssqv. Whats your last price on it pls. Can you send me pics if possible? 0468744534

Cheers.

Anthony

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    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
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