Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sell My HKS GT3037

Still on car. well on engine (engine out of car) did not plan on selling but Dream turbo set-up has come up for sale so if i sell this i can get the turbo setup i want..

Turbo is fine does not blow smoke and at 16 psi gave me 304kw on 1jz manual

Melb

Contact via PM or 0431152295

Price $1000 Firm

Any questions feel free to ask

Any a quick picture of it via facebook if you want more detailed shots feel free to ask and i will take some Saturday when i get home.

408251_10151081500500387_604225386_22250676_12000735_n.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398673-hks-gt3037/
Share on other sites

The HKS GT30 Series Turbo - GT3037S Turbine is quite popular among the high power drift cars because of their balance of response and power. The HKS GT Series Turbos are based on ball-bearing Garrett units and like the HKS Signature Series have re-engineered compressor and turbine wheels along with specific A/R and trim levels. All GT Series Turbos are designed to be a perfect blend of power and response. HKS achieved this balance by first choosing to use a ball-bearing center cartridge to reduce friction along with an off-center turbo design for improved efficiency and flow. Next HKS carefully tested Trim and A/R levels along with different inlet and outlet diameters to achieve optimal power. The results of this combination are turbos that not only deliver amazing power, but also spool incredibly fast.

HKS GT Series Turbos are offered with a GT25 (T25) and/or T3 footprint and the turbine wheel is constructed of inconel. Inconel is a very expensive material that can withstand extremely high temperatures and is typically only used in the aero-space industry and on race cars.

Specs of mine off top of my head will confirm when i get home tonight

SPECIFICATIONS:

Turbine Model: GT3037S

Turbine Type: Ball Bearing Type

Compressor Wheel (mm):

- Trim: 56

- Inducers: 55.0

- Major: 76.2

Compressor Housing (mm):

- In Dia.: 100

- Ex Dia.: 50

Turbo Wheel (mm):

- Trim: 84

- Inducers: 60.0

- Major: 55.0

Turbo Housing:

- In Flange: GT25

- Ex Flage: GT30

A/R:

- 0.87: 12cm2

PRODUCT NOTES:

External Wastegate Type

All right as you see in pic i run a 1JZ on 16PSI i made 280rkw 18psi 304kw

on 16psi i was making full boost by 3800rpm and at 4000rpm i had 200rwkw so a very responsive turbo and still making power at 7500rpm (my safe limiter) wind boost up more rev harder and you have a very awesome power band

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398673-hks-gt3037/#findComment-6332762
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...