Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26Dett / Something Wrong With Idle/fire

drpheel

By drpheel,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

drpheel Enthusiast

drpheel

Posted
Posted

Hey guys !! Just started my car this weekend after my friday night cruise and the car was Ideling funny. I could actualy hear a small POP sound returning in the plenum. After a few troubleshoot steps I noticed that when I pulled the 6th coil plug or injector plug the car was still ideling the same and still did the pop. all other coils or injector that I disconnect has a direct impact on idle. I have changed all the coil packs one by one, Cleaned my mafs, Checked the plugs and re-gapped them, Changed the Ignitor. I dont thinks its the fuel as the car was running great friday night. When my coil pack change did not work I did a compression test and found all 6 CLY to be 150-155 6th cyl was the best @ 155.

Im kind of out of Ideas here :( Is there a way I can remove the coil of #6 and look if there is actualy a spark ?! All readings in POWER FC look great and I have no TPS probleme it sees IDLE ON and goes off as soon as I play with the throttle a bit. I wish I had a video to show you guys the sound :S

Any help or pointers would be great !!

thanks

drpheel Enthusiast

drpheel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They all have a nice brown beige color to them, tho the ceramic on #6 was a bit more black. I have changed them and re-gapped them. Im at the office right now so no acces to pics : (

drpheel Enthusiast

drpheel

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Do you have stock coil packs? If the spark plugs don't fix it, then I'm sorry to say but you'll have to get a known working set and swap it in.
I tryed stock 26 coil packs working , stock 20 and 25 and I still get the probleme :(

***edit : I have also tryed different wire looms from the Ignitor to the coil packs with different coil packs and still same result

Edited by drpheel
Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted

Pull the plug, plug it into the coil pack, sit it on top of the motor with about 1-2mm between the end of the plug and one of the rocker covers, get a mate to start the car for you (turn your turbo timer off first) and see if there's a spark at the plug. You only need the car runnign for 2-3 seconds (no damage will be done when doing this). Perhaps even pull two and compare them. #6 might be sparking but be very weak.

If you have lots of delicious spark, I'd be looking for a fuel problems such as a leaky or blocked injector.

drpheel Enthusiast

drpheel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Pull the plug, plug it into the coil pack, sit it on top of the motor with about 1-2mm between the end of the plug and one of the rocker covers, get a mate to start the car for you (turn your turbo timer off first) and see if there's a spark at the plug. You only need the car runnign for 2-3 seconds (no damage will be done when doing this). Perhaps even pull two and compare them. #6 might be sparking but be very weak.

If you have lots of delicious spark, I'd be looking for a fuel problems such as a leaky or blocked injector.

Great ! I had in mind that I could only do that with a standard spark plug wire and distributor ... Il give it a try in the morning :) Tnx for the input

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...