Jump to content
SAU Community

[Qld] V35 / 350Z King Springs And Stock Shocks (Updated Model)

hobbsy
 Share

Recommended Posts

hobbsy Collaborator

hobbsy

Posted
Posted (edited)

King Springs to suit 350z / V35

1" drop on 350z

~ 2" drop on V35

Condition: Good condition, had them on for about 12,000 kms

Price: $200 , cost $400 new.

350z Stock shocks from a 2005 35th Anniversary model with 55,000 kms

From what I have read these are a great upgrade for V35/G35, they will improve firmness/handling and handle lowering springs without blowing .. if you put 2" drop springs on stock V35 shocks I don't imagine they'll last long. 2005 onwards shocks were upgraded from the 2003/2004 models.

$400 ono for both springs and shocks and will fit the springs on the shocks for you for easy install.

Edited by hobbsy
  • 2 weeks later...
hobbsy Collaborator

hobbsy

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Price drop $250 FIRM for shocks+king springs!

Also have 4x 12mm hubcentric slip on spacers to suit Nissan, $50 for all 4 or $25 if purchased with the shocks and springs ($275 all up)

Edited by hobbsy
  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...