Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all, currently doing stage 1 mods to my 34 gtt, couple of questions in relation to the tiptronic. i'm a noob with pretty much everything mechanical as this is my first from stock diy project (well a bloody patient mate and i to be honest) it's an auto, i know but i don't have a manual license (give me a license to ride a 1000cc repsol but not a manual car, go figure), besides that it's all i can afford till i scrape up enough coin for a 34gtr and get my manual license of course (6th time lucky)

work to date from stock;

safc

greddy fmic

blitz pod

ces dump pipe (splitter)

high flow cat (3" turbo back basically)

to be done this weekend;

walbro fuel pump

tomei fuel reg

waste gate actuator

avcr .

1. will be dyno'd next week and i'm planning on throwing mv auto's upgraded valve body and "black box" in. I've been told by a mate to wait until it comes off the dyno and see how it go's without before ordering them?

2. anyone done similar mods to an auto 34, what rwhp can i expect and approximate 1/4 mile from the mods above

3. Launch controller and the tiptronic, is this a good idea?

4. anyone have a sitc for sale?

appreciate any tips on anything else that i should be doing before tuning.

cheers :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399190-another-34-tiptronic-thread/
Share on other sites

also, atf cooler question? is it necessary to get a bigger one? whats the optimum temp/viscocity of the tranny fluid. my stock cooler is between the radiator and fmic, do most peeps relocate them? upsize, relocate or add fan with thermostat switch?

Hey mate so my 34 4dr auto has the following mods

Just jap FMIC

Turbo back custom 3inch stainless steel exhaust

Apexi super suction kit ( Makes the car woosh thats about it lol )

Turbo Smart boost tee (Running13 psi)

Nistune chip

That's all i have really done and on the dyno it ran 194Rwkw on a hot day which I'm happy with.

Once the tune has been done the auto gearbox seems to run better any way as they can change shift patterns ect.

I have heard that the auto box's should be good up to around 250wrkws any way so if your going to do it, do it after the tune that way you can see how it feels.

Ps. The main issue that I'm having these days is trying to keep traction at the rears no joke im researching new tires and everything lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...