Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I broke my seat and need a replacement asap- I was pushing back on it as you would if you were trying to get your wallet out from some tight jeans, and snap, the metal link/brace broke.

What I'm wondering is:

  • are the rails for most seats a standard width? in which case I could get just about anything, swap the rails and bolt it back to the floor.
  • if not, what is a good brand/model to go for- I don't do any track days, and would like a reasonably comfortable seat with decent side cousions.
  • what is a new one likely to cost? I just had a look at an 'autotechnica' seat at autobarn $400, it felt alright, and was "semi-moulded", what does this mean? Is there a lot of difference between brands- remember I'm not going racing but want a quality seat still.
  • What dramas am I likely to encounter?

Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere, I couldn't find it.

Cheers,

Hey, I was doing a search and found some more info on replacing R33 seats, it was all very old though 2004, 2007, and there seems to be a lot of talk about incompatible rails/floor plans, and modifying universal rails. Am I not able to just bolt my R33 rails on to a new seat, and then bolt them to the floor? I don't want to be fabricating anything, and really need some advice before I go buyinng a new seat. Surely someone has done this more recently.

I wish it was this easy, it is starting to do my head in :angry: I have found seats with rails out of stock, rails with seats discontinued, or only compatible with an $1,800 seat (bride). The bride universal rail which is supposed to be compatible with R33Gtr does not fit the floor plan (back left mount is against the wall not floor)

I have spent way too much time online, at work :whistling: , trying to find a decent any combination; can someone please let me know of a brand of seat and rails that they managed to fit into their R33, I want to be driving my Line again.

Cheers,

p.s. has anyone had any luck fitting a standard universal rail, not skyline specific?

Yeah, those are out of stock, and the only JJR seat I can find is fixed back anyway. This is the bride rail that says it suits R33 http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/part/bride/seat-rail-lr-type but look at the back left foot and compare to the JJR in your link- someone has got it wrong, plus these only suit the Gias or Stradia ($1,800). I just had a look at the "left hand side" Bride rail http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/part/bride/seat-rail-lr-type and it looks like it has the right floor plan- surely they're determining left and riight from the position of someone sitting in the seat not looking head on at the car???? Still don't want to pay $1,800 for a seat plus $280 for rails, then shipping.

This is ridiculous- I can't believe that nobody can recommend a combination they know will work.

Has no one got an after market seat in their R33???? Would really appreciate some help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...