Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My skyline has a 2.5inch cat back exhuast system with a muffler just before the diff, then it turns into a 3inch straight pipe. If i was to get the Stainless steel drift pipes welded on the back 3inch inlet to a Y section into 2 3inch pipes would this affect anything but the sound? If i had the money I'd re-do the system but i don't so just wondering, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400360-exhuast-question/
Share on other sites

shouldn't affect anything to drastic man you wouldn't be flowing enough now to out flow the current system so i wouldn't worry about the extra pipe being added.

as far as noise goes should make it a fair bit louder and on a natro thst system will be WAY over the legal db reading... also if your gona be fully hella flush sickness and stick them out a foot past the rear bar copas will hate you, and expect to be pulled over alot...

tldr, won't affect anything, will be louder and illegal

Okay well, its only costing around 90 to get it welded on and have the piping moved around so thanks. As for it sticking out, I'll prob just cut more into the rear bar so it can fit out and have it pretty flush to the back of the rear bar, already got enough defects as it is.

its not as much about pipes as it is mufflers, one muffler in a system will always make loud regardless of pipe diameter.

think mufflers and resonators for adjusting sound, and pipe diameter as adjusting flowcapabilitys

pipe size will always have an effect on noise though, even after the muffler. the more restriction in an exhaust, the more effect the muffler will have. this is why with a big exhaust you often get a drone at low rpm. there isn't enough restriction to really quieten it down. also the amount of echo that you get with bigger pipes. twin 3" pipes will be mega loud. twin 2" pipes will still be pretty loud, but not as loud.

if the car is a natro (hence posting in here), and an r32 (according to your profile, then anything above 2.5" on a 2L engine is a waste of time and you may well be losing low end power. 2.25" would be more than adequate for a 2L engine unless you spend all your time on the track at high rpm.

Okay thanks, yeah its just a rebuilt RB20DE the current 2.5inch system is what was on it so don't really want to pull it all out. Im going to sell the tips. and run a single stainless steel pipe from the muffler of 2.5 inch might make it a little better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...