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rb20x6 coilpacks 1 is faulty $100

r32 gts-t front guards one black other in primer $250

x2 r32 rear bumper $50

rear tail lights (no covers) $100

wagan boot spoiler for any r32 painted white brand new $250

starter motor $50

momo black plain steering wheel $50

r32 sunroof spoiler has a crack on the corner glue it and wont even notice it $150 very rare

gts-t boot no spoiler or lock. dark blue $20 will need a respray

r32 rb20 stock afm $100

hicas lock bar $50 fit most cars

bride brix 2 (i think) $600 can come with r31 rail.

Redback highflow cat $100. Used condition.

watanabes 15x7+27 all around ok tread. 4x114.3 slight bend in 1 100% useable

r32 white boot with gts wing perfect condition brand new paint $200.

Idale air valve control rb20 $50

Rb20 butterfly with tps $80

Rb20 tps $40

Rda r32 slotted rotors front pair only used for 20 days. Still have box pretty new.$180

Rb25 cas $20

rb25 coil pack cover $20

Rb25 90 degree elbow before fmic piping with bov. $50

Rb20 intake plenuim $50

Type r gauges and senders. All wiring all work. $150 the lot..

pickup hoppers crossing victoria.

can post most items anywhere in australia if you pay.

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r32 dark blue boot::::needs respray $30

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bride/recaro fixed seat adapter $40

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sr20/s13 front pipe flex gktech brand $50

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pair of rims 17x7+47 black look pretty good.

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4x114.3 anz rims gutter rash on all average condition all passed rwc. really good tread $350...spent a lot on tyres.

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r32 sunroof spoiler $150

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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