Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HenryPhoto1.jpg

HenryPhoto2.jpg

HenryPhoto3.jpg

HenryPhoto4.jpg

Selling my 1992 Nissan S13.

A good write up of the car has been done by Henry Phan from dorifuto:

http://www.dorifutoo.com/2012/04/1685/

Has been owned by me for the last 7 years, bought it when i was on my P's to get to and from uni.

Has slowly been built to what it is today. Being N/A there wasn't much i could do to get more power out of it but I did the most I could without opening up the head, hence suspension/brakes and driveline were all concentrated on, is great fun at skid pan days. Only thing other thing left to do would be to advance the timing a few degrees which will take like 10 mins.

At a guess, the car is making close to 95rwks which is more than enough for to have some fun.

Car has been used by me at skid pan days and numerous drift days however the car is reliable as hell and is regularly serviced either every 7000 kms (when it was my daily) / every 6 months which ever came first / after every 2 events of late.

I drive up 3 hours, skid and drive 3 hours back home never once has the car broken down or been left stranded.

Anyone that knows me can vouch for this.

Car is up to 210,000 kms and still goes like it is new, revs freely, starts first time everytime.

Water pump/belts was changed less than 5,000kms ago, im sure there was more that ive forgotten

Clean car, but body does show its age

Has rego till next year, March 2013 wont come with RWC as i don't have time to organise

Plates do not come with the car

Genuine reason for sale, nothing broken or that the car is going to die. I am traveling later on this year and could do with the extra money. If not the car will sit idle at home.

No joy riders or test drivers. Will only allow test drives for serious buyers.

Price is $6,000 FIRM

Low ballers and dreams will be told where to go.

Alot of the good stuff have already been sold, so it doesnt come with the follow:

15 x 8 - 8 Mesh Wheels with 185/55/15 Federal F1's

Fets front and rear strut braces,

R32GTR 3 slat grill,

Bucket seat

Gktech drift wheel

330cm Dildo gear knob

Bee*R Rev limiter

Apexi SAFC

SZ Roof visor

Aero pods

I will get more pics of the car as it stands later.

ENGINE:

Stock SR20DE

Shortened intake

4-2-1 Jasma extractors

2.5" straight through exhaust

Punched Cat

Exedy heavy duty clutch with bigger SR20DET flywheel

SUSPENSION/BRAKES/WHEELS/DIFF

SR20DET calipers/slotted rotors/QFMARM1 pads

Tein HA 8/6 Coilovers

Rear R32 GTR Swaybar

Stock wheels/Work Ewings

R200 with a 1.49 shim

Loom has been tucked to accomodate super lowness

EXTERIOR

J's headlights with clear covers with 6000K HID KIT

CA front lip

Aero sideskirts

R32GTR boot lip

INTERIOR:

S15 drivers seat

Momo steering wheel

Sunroof

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...