Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Year: 2000

Make: Nissan

Model: AUS Delivered Silvia Spec R

Kms: 127xxxkm

Transmission: 5 speed manual

Rego: Can be supplied, road worthy included

Description/History:

Up for sale is my 2jz powered S15. I’m looking at buying a house or rental property so this must go. This is an extremely quick car yet still can quietly drive around town without any hassles. I am the 3rd owner since the conversion was done. There are a few Nissan S15 in Australia with this conversion, so this is a chance to own something very unique. Engine, gearbox, turbo and FMIC are mod plated/engineering certificate.

The car makes 458.9rwhp @1.2bar. The only drawback from the car making more power is the undersized fuel system. With bigger injectors (1000cc can be supplied at a price) and maybe a surge tank, power figures could be around the 550-600hp mark without drawing a sweat.

No expense spared when servicing with recently rebuilt turbo (over $1000), new steampipe manifold and turbo gaskets. Rebuilt power steering pump with new lines rated to 2800psi. Rebuilt clutch by NPC. New timing belt, new serpentine belt for alternator and p/s. New oil cooler. Near new KUMHO ECSTA XS semi slicks tyres ($800). Serviced every 5000km with full synthetic oils and new coolant

Exterior:

Factory Pearl White

Factory Sunroof

Factory Spec R side skirts

Carbon Fibre Boot Lid (factory boot supplied)

Front Chin Lip

Engine:

2JZ-GTE

Custom engine mounts

K&N POD

4 inch intake

Innovative T76 Turbo (ceramic coated)

Braided turbo cooling lines

Steam pipe exhaust manifold (ceramic coated)

68mm external wastegate w/ screamer (ceramic coated)

4 inch dump pipe (ceramic coated)

3.5 inch straight through exhaust

Varex Muffler

FMIC

Custom IC piping

80mm throttle body

Greddy copy plenum welded on to factory runners

Aftermarket radiator

Twin thermofans

Oil cooler

Catch can

Magnafuel pressure reg

GTR fuel pump

Removed A/C pump

Engine dampener

Standard 430cc injectors

ECU/Electronics:

Haltech E11v2 ECU

Blitz Dual SBC spec R

Blitz racing boost meter DCII

Gearbox/Suspension:

R154 gearbox

Custom gearbox mounts

Custom OS Giken super single plate

V8 supercar style thrust bearing

Push pull type clutch slave kit

Custom J shifter to suit interior

Trust shift knob

Custom one-piece tail shaft

Factory LSD

Project Mu NS rear pads

Factory suspension

Strut brace

Wheels/Tyres:

Black Racing Pro N1 17x8 fronts, 17x9 rears

Kumho KU36 ecsta xs semi slick 235/45 front 255/40 rears

Forged wheel lugs

Pictures:

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/666CEF/IMG_8041.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/666CEF/IMG_8284-1.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/666CEF/DSCF3970.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/666CEF/classifieds-67260-0-44854700-1337054629.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/666CEF/DSCF3974.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/666CEF/DSCF3901.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/666CEF/IMGP2693.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/666CEF/IMGP2705.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/666CEF/IMGP2721.jpg

Price: $27000 Firm

NO SWAPS.

No test pilots, a deposit will be needed for test drives.

Serious inquires only.

No Lowball offers.

Location: Brisbane

Contact: PM me or Call/MSG on 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...