Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thought it might be worth a mention, got some walkie talkies from supercheap the other day that have a 7km range, if anyone else is keen to get a set they are on sale at autobarn for $89.

only round the house, they seem pretty good.

pretty keen to test them on the road.

can probably leave one at jarrads house and see if there is any problem transmitting to there from mine haha..

I do want! No gate tho, too lazy to unplumb it lol

So ill have to call you or get details for the Sunday man!

Picked up the car this arvo and asked the guy if you can enter on the day and he said yeah but costs an extra $10 and if no spots are available then no luck.

If you want you can pre enter and sort all the paperwork out on the day

If you want to know more ring John Collins on 49 611 600 as he knows all

Just incase no one knows yet. Me ant and a few others are going to putty road north side on Sunday to scout for our next big cruise. Let us know in here or by pm if your keen to make sure you get the details (hasn't been arranged yet)

Just incase no one knows yet. Me ant and a few others are going to putty road north side on Sunday to scout for our next big cruise. Let us know in here or by pm if your keen to make sure you get the details (hasn't been arranged yet)

Tim is interested too.....

Ill be there if my nugget is home, just gotta get down and get it tomorrow...

PICS OF HARNESS's!!!!!!

PICS OF HARNESS's!!!!!!

FYP

I have 2 in the car now ill snap some pics at lunch, i will have to feed them into the seat as i have the shoulders straps sitting on the back seat and the waist ones hidden under the seat, the mounting points are hte bolt for the rear seat buckle, replace the bolt with an eye bolt, Lower seat belt bolt on each side for 1 waist strap and the other can clip onto the seat rail after u unscrew a bolt to give it room then s crew it back in and its locked in.

Pics as requested.

On the pic with the seat out, the 2 plugs i have circled you can pull up (just a plastic cap) and screw eye bolts in, on the passenger side i had to use this as the seat belt buckle bolt was in so tight my woman hands (i work in IT) could not get it out, on the drivers side i replaced the buckle bolt with an eye bolt. Replaceing the bolt would be the preferd way to do it as when you sit on the back seat you get an eye bolt in the ass cheak.

post-83784-0-13281400-1357863449_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-39978200-1357863456_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-46343400-1357863470_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-11240800-1357863482_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-07557400-1357863487_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-40107600-1357863497_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-64768200-1357863503_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-85435700-1357863508_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-06554200-1357863573_thumb.jpg

post-83784-0-14429200-1357864308_thumb.jpg

Edited by T4NK

Sweet well have a bit of a crowd! Who's Tim??

So far we got

Me ant Ben mat benji Ben(xd) and Tim?

Him is Tim ---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/413072-tims-n15-sss-pulsar-with-a-twist-neo-vvl/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...