Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hay guy is wondering if anyone could help me

The traction control and slip light wont go off

I have changed the plugs and coil packs and they still stay on.

Doing my head in.

If anyone knows where to go to next would be a great help

Its on a R34 GTT manual 4 door.

Cheers guys

I just fixed the same exact problem

Does the traction control come on even with lights on ? ( you can tell if the car is still drivable above 2k rpm ? Its shagged) if so the traction control motor has and /or sensor has failed ( unless the plug is out or crusty on the tcs sensor)

The gtt r34 uses more then 3 different part # 's for the same model diff years for those parts and new they cost over 2k i checked you have to buy the whole throttle unit from nissan

Strange enough the auto and manual bodies are different part # 's altogether but will swap just fine except you get cruise control throttle bracket on auto model ( i can see automatic cars will have to use automatic bodies due to the harness pin out hardwired to the stepper motor ) but 5 spds like mine the auto one off a series 1 worked fine ) 15 min swap out the whole unit but get the nissan gasket for the throttlebody first , i bought the last one in oz nissan a few weeks ago

Options to fix

Swap with one off wreck and reset tps , ecu

Easy fix

Or

Strip the stepper motor which is very fussy and exact or it will screw up if you dont mark it , the blade on the motor wont selftest which throws up the warning lights

Can also be the sensor on tcs

And tps out of range , mine was toast

Cleaning wont fix unless you open up stepper motor be warned its fussy , i have two throttlebodys here if you need photos up close , one auto , one 5 spd series 2

not coilpacks like the other issues listed

speaking of that my shitfire packs are dying now , splitfire oz has horrible customer service by the way and found out mine were imported by where i bought my car from and voided the warranty day one unauthorized dealers for splitfire , part numbers dont even match oz part numbers

Barely 4 years old and spotless and wires upgraded

Time for MSD hi energy from the states f**k those off and be done with it

God sounds like a bit of a head F*$K.

The car still drives fine its not a real issue just hate having the lights on

Plus i dont want it to cause to much of a issue when i start putting some

good power through it, want to get everything sorted before this happens.

So it sounds like the easiest way to fix it is to get another throttle body with new gaskets?

If so will have to try and find one and go from there and hope that sorts the issue.

Couldn't find MSD coil packs just got splitfire ones which seem to work great, where did you get a MSD ones from.

Cheers heaps for the info mate.

Dont bother i can tell you the codes will be the tcs / tps , i would put money on it

The codes will say no ground on tcs or open loop

Selfcheck fail

serious mate if your down south in can loan you my throttlebody , you dont even need to install it just plug it in lay it on the engine and start the engine with the bad one running the airflow still

The lights will clear that moment ( codes will still be in ecu but you can reset it afterwards)

The car runs fine just no tcs and lights that scream out defect , as long as you confined clean harness and no broken wires or unplugged tcs

The fix takes 15 min , gasket was like 10 bucks , complete throttle body from wreck on sau 40 bucks , start engine you hear it flick the traction control as you turn the key , lights go off

All sorted , even good nissan mechanics will try to chase it at 100 bucks hr and not find it , your tps will need reset afterwards no big deal the idle off automatic was 2,000 but 2 second fix

Msd stuff is lots of mod to work and find room

But 100000 times better then shitfires or truck coils

Turn you key to on while listening for tcs flap sound , the stepper motor is the big round can at the front of the throttlebody wires hidden under it

Its stuffed if you cant hear it flap closed and open again before engine cranks which pops up the warning lights

You can also get ABS failure lights along with it

Thats a quick no money fix

Cheers for all your info guys,

I was just under the hood this morning making sure everything is connected

and i found a spear blue one just sitting there and cant seem to find what it connects to.

So if anyone knows what that one is for and if thats causing the issue before i go and find a

new/second hand throttle body.

With all this rain at the moment its hard to drive and i would like for everything to work.

A photo would help

But the blue plug if its behind the throttlebody closer to firewall on drivers side goes to charcoal canister solenoid the item with two vacuum lines one to manifold with one way mushroom valve the other to the underside metal vacuum crossover pipe on its way to charcoal canister

The blue plug plugs into that

If you have a blue plug at the front of your intake thats could be the cause !!!

Pop up some photos of the area for a look

Make sure the plug on the back of tcs is in and tight

And the plugs that sit on the rack in front of the intake near fuel reg are pushed all the way in and not crusty

Listen for the flap / clunk of the tcs when the key is to last position before starting if you dont hear it tcs throws up the lights after engine starts

Tps is still working a bit or it fights with tcs to shut the engine down at 2000 rpm like mine did

Makes your redline 2,000 and let me tell you up a hill it isnt enough lol

2000 wasnt even enough to clear my curb without a run at it with light flyheel

Edited by Carbon 34
  • 2 months later...

Hey Guys any update on this?

i too havd tcs slip light on. car drives fine, no hesitation, might be abit tricky in the wet, but traction control didnt exist pre r34.

I still would like it fixed. returning error code 17.

- Throttle control unit detects malfunction in the system (open throttle sensor harness etc.)

- TCS/ABS control unit detects malfunction

Exact same issu here but only when my PFC was installed. Factory ECU won't do it, I really have to sus it out but I created a thread about it a while ago. Heres the thread - http://www.skylinesa...ht-on-with-pfc/

A quick run down on my problem:

- Traction doesnt work at all

- No fault codes with the stock ECU in, I don't think but feel free to correct me that the PFC wont let you do a diagnostic check

- Can't hear the flapper motor on start up so assume it may be that but as I said this is the wierd part, factory ECU in it all works fine no lights, tcs works. Plug the PFC in and bang won't come up

I read earlier to reset the TPS, how do you reset the TPS?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...