Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25/30 Long Engine, T67-25G Kando & Tial W/g, Freddy Intake & 80Mm, Power Fc & Nismo750Cc


Recommended Posts

Will only seperate parts once engine is sold!

RB25/30 Long motor rebuilt november 2011,

Reco head with welded vtc and waterjacket, RB20 inlet cam, 25 exhaust cam, metal head gasket.

Linished std crank, crank collar, N1 oil pump, New acl bearings and moly rings on std RB30E pistons & rods.

1.2mm restrictors, block drilled, lightly honed. New Exedy HHHD clutch, timing belt, idlers and waterpump.

Can see running and fitted to vehicle.

$1650

Kando T67-25G with Tial MVR 44mm wastegate mounted off exhaust housing.

Includes modified stainless top mount manifold, dump and screamer/flanges/flex.

Turbo 4months old & still under warranty.

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$1250

Freddy RB25 inlet manifold & 80mm throttle body, modified to clear R32/S13 master cylinder.

Chrome outer and machined face, Tps & 3' intake pipe/hoses included

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$450

Apexi powerFC suit rb25

Includes hand controller, Z32 afm & k/n pod filter.

Tuned by Pits - Rb25 with Z32 afm with 80mm throttle,750cc & Gt3037s with .63.

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$1000

Nismo 750cc injectors in modified fuel rail with twin feeds.

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$600

Splitfire coilpacks suit series1 R33 Rb25.

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$350

Greddy GREX oil cooler kit

big cooler, thermostat and filter relocator, New Russell braided hose

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$550

R32 40mm Alloy Radiator & 16' electric fan

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$220

Will only seperate parts once engine is sold!

All parts are currently fitted to my R32 and I drive it everyday to work.

No dyno sheets, No tyre kickers & No bullshit!

Very aggresive and No knock even on 14psi

Heaps of quality R32 parts available!

Will sell all $5500 CASH and include spare RB25 long motor!

Gold coast

Sam 0423 648 114

Edited by 32TAXI

Story of the 25/30!

The old rb25 had leaky valve stem seals and smoked on hard decel, but still had even comp on all.

So weighted it up to rebuilt a 25 or 30 but scored a 30 Short block, collar, cometic head gasket, new waterpump and 2x 1.2mm restrictors cheap off SAU so it started.

.

Bought a spare 25 head, welded water passage and vct then got full reco and 2x valves by Gilberts.

Got a New genuine N1 oil pump and Nissan gasket set, Acl bearings and Moly rings from states at the right time. Crank was sent to Probuilt, Grubscrews and collar fitted, checked and linished.

Gave the block a good clean, drilled, restricted and a light hone(slight top ring wear)Standard bores, deck and crank, new dayco belt and hi/lo tensioners, RB20DET inlet cam/sprocket as always wanted GTR covers!

I'm a Mechanic of 15 years at Nissan, In the trade as they say and was built cheap so sell cheap.

RB25/30 was built in november 2011, No forgies, No rods, supported well, never spun over 7k or 14 psi.

Just a tough street engine that pulls hard, very aggresive and runs great.

Needs a good balancer as never got around to it & VCT can be fitted via external line or internal mod if needed.

Edited by 32TAXI

What sorta deal u do on engine and turbo?

Call, inspect and go from there

Edited by 32TAXI

Motor, inlet and box SOLD

turbo, powerFC, injectors, oilcooler, splitfires and rad all available!

Edited by 32TAXI


  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...