Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will only seperate parts once engine is sold!

RB25/30 Long motor rebuilt november 2011,

Reco head with welded vtc and waterjacket, RB20 inlet cam, 25 exhaust cam, metal head gasket.

Linished std crank, crank collar, N1 oil pump, New acl bearings and moly rings on std RB30E pistons & rods.

1.2mm restrictors, block drilled, lightly honed. New Exedy HHHD clutch, timing belt, idlers and waterpump.

Can see running and fitted to vehicle.

$1650

Kando T67-25G with Tial MVR 44mm wastegate mounted off exhaust housing.

Includes modified stainless top mount manifold, dump and screamer/flanges/flex.

Turbo 4months old & still under warranty.

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$1250

Freddy RB25 inlet manifold & 80mm throttle body, modified to clear R32/S13 master cylinder.

Chrome outer and machined face, Tps & 3' intake pipe/hoses included

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$450

Apexi powerFC suit rb25

Includes hand controller, Z32 afm & k/n pod filter.

Tuned by Pits - Rb25 with Z32 afm with 80mm throttle,750cc & Gt3037s with .63.

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$1000

Nismo 750cc injectors in modified fuel rail with twin feeds.

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$600

Splitfire coilpacks suit series1 R33 Rb25.

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$350

Greddy GREX oil cooler kit

big cooler, thermostat and filter relocator, New Russell braided hose

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$550

R32 40mm Alloy Radiator & 16' electric fan

Fitted to vehicle and only for sale once engine sold!

$220

Complete 3.0 litre setup ready for your transmission in a silvia, skyline or whatever????

All parts are currently fitted to my R32 GTST and I drive it everyday to work.

No dyno sheets, No tyre kickers & No bullshit!

Very aggresive and No knock even on 14psi

Heaps of quality R32 parts available!

Will only seperate parts once engine is sold!

Will sell all $5500 ono and include spare RB25 long motor!

Gold coast

Sam 0423 648 114

Edited by 32TAXI

This is a bargain... Makes me depressed thinking I how much I have spent putting together a similar setup (without a 3L). Am I reading right that you are including 2 running engines in the $5500 package?

Yeap, All the shit plus 2x engines - 1x rb25/30 complete running, 1xrb25 spare long motor

My plans were to bolt 25 back in and go further with 30!

Basic bolt up to your gearbox in either R32 or R33 and GO!

post-58828-0-39228000-1343038569_thumb.jpg

p.s. Turbo in picture not included in sale

Story of the 25/30!

The old rb25 had leaky valve stem seals and smoked on hard decel, but still had even comp on all.

So weighted it up to rebuilt a 25 or 30 but scored a 30 Short block, collar, cometic head gasket, new waterpump and 2x 1.2mm restrictors cheap off SAU so it started.

.

Bought a spare 25 head, welded water passage and vct then got full reco and 2x valves by Gilberts.

Got a New genuine N1 oil pump and Nissan gasket set, Acl bearings and Moly rings from states at the right time.

Crank was sent to Probuilt, Grubscrews and collar fitted, checked and linished.

Gave the block a good clean, drilled, restricted and a light hone(slight top ring wear) Standard bores, deck and crank, new dayco belt and hi/lo tensioners, RB20DET inlet cam/sprocket as always wanted GTR covers!

I'm a Mechanic of 15 years at Nissan, In the trade as they say and was built cheap so sell cheap.

RB25/30 was built in november 2011, No forgies, No rods, supported well, never spun over 7k or 14 psi.

Just a tough street engine that pulls hard, very aggresive and runs great.

Needs a good balancer as never got around to it & VCT can be fitted via external line or internal mod if needed.

$1650

Parting out my modified R32 4 door sedan once engine sold

eg. 327AXI rego, 5 months rego, mod plated, no defect, rolling shell $3500, Safety21 4door 4seat 6point rollcage $1200, GTR front bar $500, GTR Bonnet $250, R33 5 speed g/box $1200, nismo 2way lsd $650, Tein HE driftmaster coilovers $900, cusco rear arms $250, RG tension arms $150, Adjust front upper $220, 28mm rear swaybar $ 250, Sabelt GT1 seats $650, Greddy profec b spec 2, greddy timer, pivot shiftlight, Nardi wheel + + + +

Edited by 32TAXI

Keen on the inlet mani and oil cooler, let me know wen ur ready to sell.

Motor and inlet sold

Oil cooler available $550

Turbo, power fc, injectors, splitfires and alloy radiator also available

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...