Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I know there are plenty of thread with gts-t 32's for sale but I'm currently still on my p's and really need a new car. Thus if anyone has an 1990-93 R32 Gts Skyline manual N/A in the sydney area I would love to take it off your hands. I'm not looking for something heavily modified or a track car as I wanted to modify myself. I have look through like 60 pages of for sale on this forum and probably like more than 100 on other forums and sites.

Max price I would be looking at would $10K which is pretty high for a N/A skyline. So if anyone has one lying around pm me.

Cheers

Matthew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406129-wtb-r32-gts-skyline-manual-sydney/
Share on other sites

ive got my 32 4 door, its on gold coast (one way plane ticket is cheap from sydney) for 5500

its auto, but can easily be changed to manual for under 1000 and you would have plenty to spend on it :)

link

V V V V

I'd love to take it off ur hands but i dont have the time to get to QLD and drive back as I'm at uni 5 days a week and work weekends night and day. Cheers for the offer

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

hi mate, have a modded 4 door r32 gts-t

link (http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-skyline-1989-12921040?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=0&eapi=2&__N=1282+1216&find=cc266d|CarAll&silo=Stock&num=15&sort=default)

looking for 10K

0401807284 if interested

p.s. even if you dont consider my car.. just some friendly advice.. buy something that is already tastefully modded... the money you spend on the car.. youll never get back.. ive spent more than 10k on my car over the last 6 years.. and paid 14,500 for it when i bought it.. now selling for 10... its up to you.. just thought i would mention it..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...