Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi mates

My friend just bought a R34 GTT Auto Tiptronic, after i went for a test drrive.we were kind of argued/discussed how to use the Tiptronic properly.?

I would say it just others auto car, when changeing the gear you don't need to put your feet off the accelerator.

However he disagreed that and said when changeing the gear it just like a MT without a clucth , you need to put your feet off the accelerator while you're changeing the gear.

So is anyone knows what is the proper process to use a Triptronic?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40761-question-on-r34-tiptronic/
Share on other sites

did you try not taking your foot off at all while changing? if you did this it probably would have been fine.

i would agree with you, as when you drive an auto you don't take it off... and tiptronic is a controlled version of auto?

meh, i'm not an expert at all so shall wait for someone who knows to reply...

Thanks rrrage, yup i did try put my foot on the accelerator while changeing gear, for the 1 -2 gears works fine, but for the 3 gear the car just like gear slipping.

e.g. when you drive a MT you release the cluch faster than you press on the accelerator!!

Anyone own a R34 Auto or knows about Tiptronic, please reply!

cheers

well having driven one of the BA model fords with their auto tiptronic version u dont have to take your foot of the accelerator as is with all auto cars whether they are tiptronic or just plain auto, that is my understanding so i shouldnt see why nissan has made it any different. When ur friend drives around he'll probably fool people into it being manual :rant:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...