Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Few things for sale at the moment!!!

I am stripping a complete SR Manual 180sx.

Car was registered and driving on the road last Saturday and is currently 90% stripped.

Nearly everything is for sale, if something isnt listed just ask because I probably just forgot to add it in.

Also some brand new aftermarket performance parts for sale. See list below

PERFORMANCE PARTS

Selling 2x Kinugawa TD05H-18g 8cm turbos, BRAND NEW

I bought these turbos a few weeks ago for my project car but have since decided to go with a different setup and am therefore selling these.

Brand new still in the plastic, i unpackaged them to inspect them and then repackaged them. They have been sitting in my lounge room ever since.

Rated at 450hp each, 3" anti surge compressor housing, v-band adaptor exhaust housing, also come with wastegates if you prefer to run them internally gated.

comes with braided line kit and gaskets.

Compressor wheel: 50.3 / 68 mm (18G Wheel)

Turbine wheel: 49.2 / 56 mm (TD05H / 12 blade )

Compressor Housing: A/R 60. Compressor Inlet : 76mm / 3”. Compressor Outlet : 51mm / 2”

Turbine Housing: 8cm A/R 57, T3 Inlet Flange

Just wanting to recoup the money i paid for them so they are $750 each.

Would prefer to sell together but will separate. Prefer local pick up.

Would be awesome on a GTR or a V6/V8. Basically a Trust T518z

Also have a 2 in 1 out front mount intercooler BRAND NEW

core size is 610 x 180 x 90, overall size is 740 x 330 x 90.

2x 2.5" side entry, 1x 3" top exit

Compress Air Flow Rate: <700Cubic Feet/Min, Rated to 600~700 Max HP

Working Pressure: 5~50PSI

Pressure Drop: 1~4psi@35psi; 0.2~0.5psi@15psi

32°F~302°F (0°C~150°C)

100% Aluminum

Bar and Plate

Machine Cut and Stamped, Hand Welded

Net Weight; 22 lbs

Suits a V8 or V6 twin turbo project

Again, just wanting to get back what i paid. $300

Prefer local pick up.

Will do a deal if someone wants all of the 3 first items

Apexi' Pen Style Turbo Timer.

Came with my car, second hand but very good condition. $50

Pivot 2 Bar Boost Gauge

Black face with white writing. $50

WRECK

NOT FOR SALE:

Gearbox

Clutch/Flywheel

Tailshaft

Diff

Rolling shell

WHAT IS FOR SALE:

Bare motor - knocks. High km motor (over 200,000). Suits build. Have not pulled head off to inspect. Motor is out of car. Comp tested before pulling it out at 120psi across all 4. $300

Full car wiring harnesses. $100

Standard radiator with shroud and fan $50

Front mount intercooler piping kit - aluminium (requires battery tray be cut), all silicone joiners etc $100 SOLD PENDING PAYMENT

Front mount - bar and plate, works fine, 600 x 300 x . Previous owner must have hit a gutter or something as the top fixing mount has sprung from the core. $50 SOLD PENDING PAYMENT

Full aftermarket exhaust $100

Boost T $10

Panels: Paint is generally aged, no major damage

Both doors $50 each

Hatch - has spoiler holes $50

Front bumper - some minor scratches, no dents. $50 SOLD PENDING PAYMENT

Rear Bumper- good condition $50

Bonnet- Good condition $50 SOLD

Front guards - standard metal (indicators still attached) $50 each SOLD

All glass windows except the windscreen $150 for all

Standard Tail lights - fully functional $100

Interior: Interior is a little faded, driver seat padding is a bit sunken.

Digital Climate Control - works perfectly $50 SOLD PENDING PAYMENT

Full interior - front and rear seats, carpets, headlining, floor mats, dash, instrument cluster, rear parcel shelf, door skins $100 for everything

Speedo surround - SOLD

Radio surround - SOLD

$1000 for everything, just get it away from me

Will add more things on as I remember them

Negotiable on price - this stuff is just taking up space and preventing me working on the car.

Pickup only, cbf'd posting bulky items. Will post small items. I am often at Winton drift days etc so can bring items to track days if required.

post-24760-0-25258000-1346477962_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-94218000-1346477963_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-19288000-1346477965_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-76028400-1346477966_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-20580200-1346477969_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-45133400-1346477971_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-70423400-1346477972_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-51145300-1346477992_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-67787300-1346477995_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-03158700-1346477999_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-68923300-1346478001_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-87247900-1346478801_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-64024800-1346478825_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-26066600-1346478847_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-63366300-1346484235_thumb.jpg

post-24760-0-65914600-1346484263_thumb.jpg

Edited by Houghy

Would you sell the shell registerable? My mate has just written his off and is looking for something to transplant his motor into!

Edit just read you aren't selling the rolling shell - ignore

Edited by ls128

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...