Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it just means that the ballast is capable of holding those different types of bulb, but what i'm saying is each bulb is different. You must use any of those bulbs listed and nothing else or it won't work. Sorry for previous post that was badly explained aha.

The socket and cable to the ballast should still b there, (socket tucked to the side).

The wiring would have been modified to eliminate the ballast altogether.

Remove halogen bulb, reconnect + & - to ballast, remove globe adapter, fit new HID bulb and you should be back to factory.

Yup looks like the one in the pic.

So all I need is the wiring and globes?

Would these fit?

http://www.ebay.com....=item27c0ff9d43

Thanks

These will not work unless you are using an aftermarket ballast, they will not plug into the factory ballast as they are hard wired.

are you sure they are different? All the ones I've found on ebay say d2r d2s and even d2c!!

http://www.ebay.com....=item27bfc22981

Even that says d2r d2s ^

I'm so confuse :(

I believe they both have the same connector which is why this harness says it will suit either, but the D2R bulb has an intergrated reflector to use in low beam applications. the D2S doesn't

Do i actually need to open my headlight units to put in any wires?

Check this out, doesn't look too hard..

http://g35driver.com/forums/body-interior-exterior-lighting-diy/264011-diy-replacing-clearance-city-fogs-hid-bulbs.html

You shouldn't need to open the headlight up.

The best way to tackle this problem is by doing some recon work first, and actually looking at what you actually have versus what you don't have.

Jack the car up, take a wheel off, remove the inner rain guard and you will have excellent access to the back of the headlight.

Pop out the top cover(globe) and inspect the setup - is the HID socket still in there and connected (to the ballast), is the ballast still bolted to the bottom of the light.

If these questions are answered with a 'YES', then all you have to do is get power to the ballast, remove the adapter plate for the halogen globe and fit some HID bulbs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...