Jump to content
SAU Community

Twin Plate Os Giken Clutch + Flywheel Is It Worth The Change?

OMY31T

By OMY31T,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

OMY31T Rising Star

OMY31T

Posted
Posted

hi guys, my dad recently got his hands on an OS Giken Flywheel, and twin plate 5 puck solid center clutch that came out of a c34. it needs new clutch plates, but seeing as though he rebuilds clutches they are worth next to nothing, and the clutch/flywheel/rebuild will cost me nothing as he wil do it... should i change up from a stock clutch.i know the gear changes will be more harsh, and might be a bit of a rougher ride, but im not using the stag as my daily anymore, so its not a big issue.

opinions? anyone else got a solid 5 puck twin plate that can comment on driveability?

cheers.

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Depends what your going to use the clutch and car for? I would say no unless it's a hardcore car. There was a thread recently where someone purchased a car with one of these and swapped it out for a less harsh setup.... Would be a tough bit of gear but all depends on its use

OMY31T Rising Star

OMY31T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thats what i was thinking, i just sold my toy car(r33) to scale down in power, and im only doing very mild mods to the stagea... aiming around the 260rwkw mark. i was personally thinking about putting in an NPC organic single, which was suggested by someone else, but seeing as though this clutch was sitting there in my old mans shop it was worth contemplating. im not to sure about the clutch itself or if its possible but i could have some custom sprung center plates made up, my old man has done me custom clutches in the past, i guess id have to talk to him, clutches really arent my thing lol, just like performance jap engines arent his haha, he is a holden man through and through.

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

I think your better off doing both, fixing the current twin plate and selling it to someone that will use and abuse and just get yourself the NPC and maintain the drivability and enjoy your car..... Personal opinion only :)

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Mr NPC coming in again.

mat is right on the money. sell it and get a more driveable clutch

I will start taking your commission as i am all over this!

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

A twin-plate has its advantages (like a lighter pedal feel compared to a single of similar power handling capabilities), but if you want a twin-plate, go for a full-face one. I just recently replaced an Exedy single plate (was supposed to be a heavy duty) with a Nismo Super Coppermix twin, and the Nismo is so much nicer to drive with!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...