Jump to content
SAU Community

Silvia S13 Rb20Det 2013 Rego $4500

cabramatta
 Share

Recommended Posts

cabramatta Community Regular

cabramatta

Posted
Posted

Okay, back from Japan and getting into my studies and jumping into a full time job soon so this needs to go as it will be sitting in the garage collecting dust as I already have a daily.

Car: 1989 Silvia S13 Seamist Green 2 tone

Exterior:

Standard apart from mirrors which have been resprayed in the 2-tone silver.

Suspension/wheels:

Standard wheels with 80-90% tread on Pirelli tyres

Pedders comfort shocks/springs (Still pretty stiff..)

Aftermarket Castor Rods

Ultra Racing fender braces

SR20DET Slotted front brakes with new bendix pads

Interior:

Pretty much standard apart from Boost gauge.

Electricals:

Battery relocated to boot

Fusebox relocated to boot

Stinger distribution block

0 gauge wire from battery to block

4 gauge wire from block to starter/alternator

Nearly all wiring replaced/extended with new cables

RB20DET Manual ECU modded with CA body harness

Engine:

RB20DET - Seller said motor had about 150,xxxkm's~ Motor is pretty healthy

RB25DET Turbo (No shaft play)

Justjap 3" bellmouth dump (200km's old~)

Gutted cat

3" Exhaust into a twin tip muffler (Not that loud)

Hybrid front mount cooler

All cooler piping resprayed with wrinkle black

Valve covers resprayed in 2-tone silver

Timing case sprayed in wrinkle black

All coilpacks have been sealed with engineering sealant

Resprayed engine bay in OEM Green

Brand new fuel filter (200km's old~)

Brand new fuel lines (200km's old~)

Modded coilpack cover (sprayed in wrinkle black aswell)

Brand new GKtech coolant reservoir (un-used)

Replaced GNC turbo/manifold gaskets (200km's old~)

Billion thermo heatwrapped front/dump pipe (200km's old~)

Most exhaust gaskets replaced (200km's old~)

Most sensors adjusted/replaced

Brand new size 52 Sealed Century battery with 2 years warranty (Still has over 1.5 years of warranty)

Most vaccume (If not all) lines have been replaced

R32 GTS-T AFM (Opened, resoldered contacts, resealed - Flushed element etc)

Most nuts/bolts/screws replaced

R32 GTS-T Radiator with aftermarket thermo (With switch) (Flushed several times before installing)

Aftermarket thermofan with switch on dash

Braided HEL Clutch line

S13 SR20 Clutch master cylinder

Rust has been cut out of sunroof (Common). Currently in primer around sunroof.

Rust has been cut out and fixed on firewall aswell (Has been resprayed after).

Car doesn't have aircon/heater (Should have all the parts to put it back on if the buyer wants though).

Around sunroof is currently sprayed in primer/putty after cutting out the rust.

There's plenty more info that I'm forgetting but to refresh your memory, just check out the build thread:

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?34785-Project-S-MUOI-BA

Price: $4,500 FIRM. (Please no low ballers or time wasters, I really don't have the time!).

Apologies for people that had contacted me before and never got a response. I had plans to finish the car but have currently purchased another project car so the Silvia will be sold at a cheaper price as there are a few things required which I will explain now.

R32 GTS-T RPM Cluster needs to be fitted onto the S13 Cluster (direct replacement) to get the RPM working as it currently doesn't work (4cyl rpm tach doesn't read the RB20 6cyl).

Speed sensor needs to be hooked up as speedo currently doesn't work.

Fuse box needs to be mounted in boot and just a general clean up of the wiring in the back. No cutting/splicing/rewiring required. Just needs a clean up.

Rear seats need to be mounted in.

ECU needs to be mounted (have SR20 ECU brackets which can be used on the RB20 ecu).

Few exhaust manifold studs are broken so a bolt extractor will be required to remove and replace (car still runs fine, but it's what I would do regardless).

Few interior plastics need to be put back on.

Fuel pump float needs to be replaced (have a spare SR20 fuel pump with float, just need to install it). I was hesitant as the car has a fuel tank of fuel and cbf submerging my hand in fuel

It's just simple stuff really that I cbf doing. Got too many cars and running out of space so price has been reduced to a hassle free $4,500 to get rid of it ASAP. Part it out, drop a SR20 NA motor in it and sell it for double.. Whatevs.

Just to name a few..

No joyriders or P platers.

post-88952-0-41483300-1350208172_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411547-silvia-s13-rb20det-2013-rego-4500/
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...