Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Randomly Wont Start, Help!

R33 Johnson
 Share

Recommended Posts

R33 Johnson Enthusiast

R33 Johnson

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, have had my r33 gts-t for 4 months with zero problems until this morn...

This morn i drove back from my nightshift and parked at the side of the house.

Left the car for 6 hrs.

This arvo jumped in to start the car and it wont.

It is cranking fine but wont start

I tried to cable jump start it but it just cranked even faster with no start.

My air con is screwed and makes a noise as I turn the key to accessories so Im unable to confirm if fuel pump is priming (althought i think i can hear it)

What should i try before calling NRMA and wasting money???? :S

Where abouts is the fuel pump located? im going to try hitting it while my cousin cranks.

Thanks alot in advance fellas

Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411835-r33-randomly-wont-start-help/
Share on other sites
sadr33 Enthusiast

sadr33

Posted
Posted

From my experience, its usually a crank angle sensor or a bad ecu that causes this when the obvious has been ruled out.

But first thing is first. You should verify you are getting optimum fuel pressure when cranking, fit a fuel pressure gauge or if you cbf unplug one of the fuel hoses after the fuel filter and see if yours squirts out when you prime it.

Also make sure none of the earth points on your car are rusted or loose.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

If you turn your key slowly from 'ON' to 'Start' you will start priming the fuel pump about halfway towards start. It's easier to hear on my car cause I have an aftermarket fuel pump, but it should work if you slowly turn it till you hear the fuel pump prime then stop and hold it and it will continue priming

Unless my car is just weird :)

How long did you crank the car for? Mine sometimes randomly takes about 10 seconds of solid cranking to start for some reason. But its only once every so often and its fine before and after this

Just remember do not crank for more then 20seconds at a time and allow a good amount of time between long cranks to let the starter cool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...