Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just curious at this stage, my 33 is all but a write off (they aren't registering it as one but the market value isn't worth repairing it)

I have had the idea of selling out parts to recoup losses.

As such -

RB25DET:

ACL Forged pistons

Shot-peened conrods

ARP studs throughout engine

HKS Step 1 intake and exhaust cams

600CC Siemens injectors

Bigger fuel rail

Rising Rate FPR

Greddy-style manifold

Custom hand-welded piping

Polished cam covers

Brand new coolant hoses

New half-moon seals

New tappet cover gaskets

HKS head gasket

High Flowed Series 2 turbo - capable of up to 20 psi (was making 20psi but kept popping cooler hoses)

Link G4 Plugin ECU, tuned by EFI Performance. Making 212rwkw @ 13psi.

90mm throttle body

Splitfire coilpacks

Custom built Jim Berry clutch

I'm sure I've missed something here, there are a lot of bits and pieces in/on it. Selling as a whole package

Trying to gauge value for it, I'm looking into a new car and need to get as much possible toward a deposit for a newer car. I paid around $4k for the motor but have put another $5-6k into it (parts + labour though!) so I'm thinking $6k nego. You couldn't build this motor for that much!

None of the motor parts have done more than 20,000km. Mainly highway driving.

Photos can be attached. Just doing this as EOI.

Other parts from car available as well!

Will ship Aus-wide, freight can be discussed.

Motor will take up to a gt30 comfortably without any modification.

Also, have a gearbox, short shifted, looking at around $1000 but open to offers. Gearbox has done approx. 160k km

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413789-rb25det-box-and-tuned-ecu/
Share on other sites

bump up, all parts currently available excluding:

alloy radiator

coilovers

(possibly) gearbox - still taking offers

one or both power window regs with motors

horn plug in area

Also available - genuine Trust intercooler - 600x300x100 with piping to suit forward facing plenum. Piping custom handmade. $400ono.

R33 4 door seats - $100 each plus post

Engine is Series 1 RB25DET - supply with or without Link G4, offers currently in progress on ECU so if you want as a package get in quick!

Front and rear strut brace - $100 the set, post anywhere, suit 2 door possibly 4 door?

Hicas bar - $50

Rear subframe bushings - stiffen the back end up - $50 the set posted anywhere in australia

Diff - standard R33 Series 1 diff - $100

Driveshafts - $100 the set

any other parts ask away! I have most of the interior parts, as well as panels, GTR bootlid with spoiler, locks, dashboard pieces, interior trim!

Text me on 0413475969 with enquiries

Bump up to the top - ECU available, $1300 firm.

Intake plenum, with fuel rail, 600cc injectors and 90mm throttle body - 750 firm, individually cost me 1400 all up with custom made adapter plate from greddy to 90mm throttle with some machining done.

Splitfire coilpacks, suit series 1 rb25det, near new 350 the set

Nearly all interior parts available, RB25DET wiring loom, ignitor, full loom $200, ignitor $50

Fuses needed? Ask away!

Also, I have a rear battery relocation kit available

Feel free to ask, turbo is sold however manifold, piping, genuine TRUST intercooler available

Bump - all I have left for the moment is Trust intercooler, wiring loom, bare motor (no clutch/intake but can supply factory plenum and injectors), catch can, exhaust manifold, 3.5 inch exhaust

BUMP BUMP BUMP

Link G4 Plugin ECU and full car wiring loom available.

0413475969

Loom $500 ono, ECU $1300 firm or as a package negotiate with me



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...